How to Open a 1995 Mercedes E320 Glove Box

1. Place the key that unlocks your driver's door into the cylinder lock on the upper left corner of the glove box and turn it counterclockwise to unlock the box.
2. Remove the key from the cylinder lock
3. Grasp the handle that the cylinder lock mounts to and locate the button on the underside of the handle.
4. Push the button with your fingers and pull down on the glove box lid simultaneously.

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How to Replace a Headlight Bulb in a BMW

1. Open the hood and unplug the HID power connector from the back of the HID ballast on back of the headlight housing assembly.
2. Pry the rubber dust cover off the back of the headlight housing assembly with your fingers.
3. Turn the headlight collar counterclockwise 1/4 turn and pull it straight out of the headlight housing.
4. Slide the new HID headlight into the housing. Align the tabs on the collar with the notches in the headlight housing.
5. Turn the headlight clockwise to lock it into the housing.
6. Slide the dust cover back over the back of the headlight housing.
7. Reconnect the power connector to the back of the headlight.

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How to Disable a Car Alarm on a 2003 Mercedes Benz C240

1. Turn off the C240's engine and open the hood. The fuse block is situated behind the C240's battery.
2. Remove the C240's fuse block cover. On the underside of the fuse block cover is a fuse puller. Remove the fuse puller from the cover.
3. Remove the fuse numbered '8' in the fuse block. Use the fuse puller. If you wish to enable the car alarm, plug the fuse back into the '8' slot.
4. Place the fuse puller back onto the cover and place the cover back onto the fuse block. Close the hood.

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How to Replace the Belts on a BMW 325i

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. The negative cable is black.
2. Remove the bolts holding the black plastic splash shield underneath the car. Remove the shield. Open the lid for the coolant tank. Drain coolant from the block into a container by removing the drain bolt under the exhaust manifold. The exhaust manifold is located on the passenger side, behind the oil filter.
3. Grab a 32-mm side open-end wrench. Use this to remove the cooling fan from the water pump by turning the nut clockwise to remove it. Once removed, keep it stored in an upright position and remove the fan shroud by unclipping the two clips that hold it on. Remove the coolant hoses from the radiator and water pump. Remember which hose goes where for when you put them back on.
4. Remove the two mounting bolts that are holding the radiator in place. Remove the radiator. Remove the three bolts that are holding the distributor cap in place and then remove the cap. Loosen the three screws that are holding the rotos in place and remove the rotor. There will also be a dust shield underneath the rotor that you need to remove as well.
5. Find the four 10mm bolts that are holding the water pump in place and loosen them. Find the six 13mm bolts holding the crank pulley in place and loosen those as well. Loosen and remove the belts for power steering, air conditioner and alternator and water pump.
6. Remove the water pump bolts and the pump itself. Finish removing the crank pulley bolts and the crank pulley itself. There is something called a harmonic damper located behind the pulley that you need to leave in place.
7. Remove the three bolts holding the upper camshaft cover in place. Use a 22mm socket and ratchet on the crankshaft nut and turn clockwise until the mark on the sprocket lines up with the notch on the head. The mark sometimes looks like an arrow or an indent. Also, make sure that the 'O/T' mark on the harmonic damper lines up with the notch on the lower timing belt cover. If these timing marks are not aligned, the process will not work successfully.
8. Continue to remove the crankshaft damper. Remove the bolts holding the lower camshaft cover into place and loosen the top bolt for the timing belt tensioner pulley. Loosen the lower bolt as well and rotate the tensioner towards passenger side of the car. Then, tighten the upper bolt back.
9. Slide the timing belt off of its pulleys and turn the sprockets clockwise, starting at the camshaft sprocket. Remove the top tensioner bolt, guide pin and spring. Remove the lower bolt as well and the tensioner. Install the new timing belt tensioner pulley. Hand tighten the lower bolt and install the guide pin and spring. Rotate the pulley towards the passenger side and loosely put in the bolt. Push the pulley all the way towards the passenger side and tighten the bolt.
10. Adjust the timing marks if you need to to make them line up. Install the new timing belt. Work in a clockwise direction and make sure to keep it tight between each sprocket. Loosen the upper tensioner bolt until the tensioner rotates to the driver's side. This will engage the timing belt.
11. Install the lower timing cover and harmonic damper. Make sure that the timing belt marks line up by rotating the crankshaft with the socket two full turns. If they do not align, you need to remove the belt and install it again until the lines match up.
12. Tighten the upper and lower tensioner pulleys and bolts. Reinstall camshaft cover, water pump, belts, radiator and fan belt. Reinstall the distributor cap and rotor and radiator hoses. Plug the drain in the block and top engine off with coolant. Reinstall splash shield.

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How to Remove a Mercedes Cylinder Head

1. Lift the hood and study the layout of the cylinder head which needs to be removed. The fuel sending unit will need to be removed or disabled before you attempt to remove the cylinder head, as well as the cylinder head cover and valve covers. Refer to the specific engine layout in your Mercedes Benz repair guide to determine what must be removed prior to removing the cylinder head.
2. Unbolt the cylinder head by loosening the retaining bolts one at a time starting with the bottom bolt in the center. The next bolt will be the top center. Remove the next bolt in a clockwise fashion from the bottom, then remove the bolt to the right of the one at the top. Continue in this fashion until all the head bolts are removed completely. Do not attempt to pry or pull on the cylinder head until the bolts are removed.
3. Pull the cylinder head away from the engine block, being careful to avoid bending the valves or allowing waste gasket material or other debris to enter the cylinders. If replacing the head gasket, scrape the old gasket material away with a plastic scraper if necessary, and ensure that the mounting surface of the cylinder head is completely clean before reinstalling the head.

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How to Check the Power Steering Fluid on a 2002 BMW 325

1. Open the car’s hood. The power-steering reservoir on a 2002 325i is located next to the coolant reservoir in the engine bay above the power-steering pump.
2. Clean the power-steering fluid reservoir and the area around it with a clean rag to avoid any dirt and debris getting in the fluid. Turn the lid of the reservoir by hand counterclockwise to loosen and remove it.
3. Look at the bottom of the lid, which will have a plastic dipstick on it. Wipe the dipstick with a rag so that it is clean and then dip it back in the reservoir. Pull it back out and look at the dipstick.
4. Pour the appropriate amount of fluid into the reservoir until the dipstick shows that it is to the full mark. Replace the lid for the reservoir. If the fluid level was very low, turn the steering wheel back and forth through the full range to make sure the steering is not heavy and does make any strange noises.

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How to Turn On a Mercedes Benz C280 Fog Lamp

1. Turn your C280's engine on, or insert the key and turn it to "Acc."
2. Locate the main light switch to the left of the steering wheel (directly beneath the left air vent). Turn the switch left to turn on the parking lights or right to turn on the headlights (the fog lamps cannot be turned on by themselves).
3. Grasp the switch's handle and pull it towards you one notch to turn on the front fog lamps.
4. Pull the switch's handle two notches to turn on the front and rear fog lamps.

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How Do I Remove the Oil Temperature Gauge in an Audi 80?

Accessing the Gauges
1. Pry off the trim around the air conditioning controls using a flat-head screwdriver. Work carefully to avoid puncturing or tearing the trim.
2. Unscrew the bolt that holds the locking piece in place. The bolt is located on the right. It is a regular bolt that can be removed with a standard wrench or pair of pliers. The trim must be removed first to expose the bolt.
3. Remove the rotary knobs that control the heat and air conditioning by hand. Remove the trim from the same area using a flat-head screwdriver.
Removing the Gauge Housing
4. Unplug the connector assignment from the rear of the housing. The appearance of this connector resembles a phone jack.
5. Unscrew the two bolts securing the housing in place using a small Phillips-head screwdriver.
6. Remove the trim plate from the front of the housing with your hands. This should pull away easily once the two screws mentioned in the preceding step have been removed.
Removing the Oil Temperature Gauge
7. Remove the noise insulator and unscrew the oil temperature sensor, which is located by the oil pump, using a small Phillips-head screwdriver. The oil pump is located under the engine and resembles a spark plug.
8. Unscrew the hexagonal nut using the hexagon nut driver and remove the exposed washer.
9. Remove the oil temperature gauge using your hands.

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How to Install Navigation on a 2006 Audi A6

1. Mount the suction cup included in the navigation system kit on the windshield by pushing it up against the glass. Push the suction cup's lever back so the cup sticks against the windshield.
2. Locate the cradle and snap it into position on the protruding arm of the suction cup.
3. Connect the power to the GPS unit itself by plugging the provided power cable into the unit. Plug the other end of the power cable into the Audi's power outlet.
4. Slip the base of the navigation unit onto the bottom of the cradle. Push the top of the navigation unit into the cradle's fixture until it clicks solidly into place. Boot up your navigation unit by turning on your car's engine then depressing the 'On' button or simply wait for the unit to start up automatically.

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How to Install the Front Brake Rotors on a 96 BMW 740IL

1. Loosen the BMW’s front wheel bolts with a ratchet and socket. Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and place jack stands under its frame rails. Lower the 740iL onto the jack stands. Remove the wheel bolts and remove the front wheels.
2. Trace the brake pad level sensor wire -- on the driver’s side only -- until you find where it connects to the BMW’s wiring harness. Press and hold the unlocking button on the wiring harness, then unplug it from the vehicle’s harness. Unfasten the retaining bolt that secures the pad level sensor bracket to the caliper, using a ratchet and socket, and pull the level sensor wire from its routing clip.
3. Instruct an assistant to press and hold the brake pedal. Remove the rotor-retaining screw in the center of the rotor with a ratchet and a hex-bit socket.
4. Find the out caliper-retaining clip -- the metal clip on the outer part of the caliper. Remove this clip by prying it out with a flat-head screwdriver.
5. Pull the plastic caps covering the caliper bolts from the caliper. Remove the two caliper pins with a ratchet and hex-bit socket, then pull the caliper up and out of the caliper bracket. Hang the caliper from a nearby suspension component with a bungee cord. If the outer brake pad did not fall out when you removed the caliper, pull the pad from the caliper.
6. Remove the two caliper bracket bolts with a ratchet and socket. Pull the caliper bracket off the steering knuckle.
7. Pull the rotor of the 740iL’s hub. If the rotor does not pull off easily, lightly tap it with a rubber mallet to free it. Set a new rotor on the front hub, lining up its screw hole with that in the hub. Hand-tighten the rotor-retaining screw. Hold the rotor firmly to prevent it from turning, then tighten the rotor-retaining screw to 12 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.
8. Set the caliper bracket back on the front steering knuckle and hand-thread its retaining bolts. Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 81 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.
9. Position a drain pan under the caliper. Place an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper so that its fixed part touches the rear of the caliper body and its screw part contacts the inner brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp until it touches the inner brake pad, then set a combination wrench on the bleeder valve -- the ¼-inch metal valve -- on top of the caliper.
10. Turn the bleeder valve a half-turn counterclockwise to open it, then immediately start tightening the C-clamp to press the caliper piston into the caliper. Continue tightening the C-clamp until the piston stops moving, then immediately close the bleeder valve.
11. Pull the old inner brake pad from the caliper; notice that small metal clips hold it inside the cavity in the piston. The brake pad level sensor comes off with the inner brake pad. Line up the clips on the rear of the new inner brake pad with the cavity in the piston, then press the brake pad toward the piston until the pad is flat against the end of the piston. On the driver’s side only, press a new pad level sensor into the groove on the top of the brake pad, nearest to the hole in the top of the caliper.
12. Set the outer brake pad in the caliper and immediately set the caliper on its bracket. Wipe all of the old grease off the caliper pins and apply a thin coat of new disc brake grease onto the smooth part of each pin. Hand-thread the caliper pins into the caliper, then torque them to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and hex-bit socket.
13. Set the outer caliper-retaining clip so that the ends of its longest side are between the caliper bracket and the center hub of the rotor. Press the clip upward to insert its two tabs into the two holes in the outer part of the caliper.
14. Route the pad level sensor wiring in the same manner the old one was positioned. Hand-tighten the pad level sensor bracket bolt, then tighten it with a ratchet and socket. Press the pad level sensor wiring into the routing clip, then plug it into the BMW’s wiring harness.
15. Press the plastic caps back in place over the caliper guide pins.
16. Repeat Steps 2 through 15 to replace the rotor on the other side of the 740iL.
17. Reinstall the front wheels on the 740iL’s front hubs, then hand-tighten the wheel bolts. Raise the BMW off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the wheel bolts, in a crisscross pattern, to between 95 and 111 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.
18. Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Add DOT 4 brake fluid, as needed, to bring the level up to the “Max" line on the reservoir.
19. Turn the ignition to the “1” position and leave it in that position for at least 30 seconds to reset the brake pad level light. Turn the ignition off.

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