How to Replace a Mercedes Oil Pan Gasket


1. Place a drain pan under the drain plug on the oil pan. Open the drain plug with a socket and ratchet then drain the engine oil into the drain pan. Once the oil drains, replace the drain plug into the oil pan and tighten it with the socket.
2. Remove the bolts that secure the oil pan to the bottom of the engine block. Depending on the model of Mercedes you have, there could be as many as 18 to 24 bolts holding the pan to the engine.
3. Pull down on the oil pan to break the seal between the pan and the engine. If necessary, wedge a thin metal scraper between the pan and the engine block to break the seal.
4. Slide the pan forward and maneuver it around the oil pickup tube inside the oil pan mounted to the engine block.
5. Scrape the old gasket off the mating surfaces of the oil pan and the engine block with a metal scraper and a towel. The cleaner you get the two surfaces, the better chances you have of limiting oil leaks.
6. Place a bead of RTV gasket sealer onto the mating surface of the oil pan and allow it to cure for 20 minutes. Place the oil pan gasket on top of the RTV sealer then apply a second bead of RTV sealer on top of the gasket. Allow that bead to cure for 20 minutes before proceeding.
7. Slide the oil pan into place. Be careful not to touch the RTV sealer on any part of the engine while you maneuver the pan into place. Once in place, push the pan directly upward onto the engine and thread a bolt into each corner of the oil pan with your fingers. Only thumb-tighten the bolts.
8. Thread the remaining bolts into the oil pan using a criss-cross pattern. Only thumb-tighten the bolts. Allow the RTV sealer to cure for another 30 minutes before continuing.
9. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet in a criss-cross pattern.
10. Open the oil fill cap on the engine valve cover and place a funnel into the hole. Pour 4 quarts of engine oil into the engine. Remove the funnel and close the cap.
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How to Check for a Broken Motor Mount in a Mercedes


1. Open your Mercedes-Benz hood and use the hood rod to secure it in an upright position. Some Mercedes hoods do not have a hood rod and the hood will stay up on its own.
2. Locate your engine's motor mounts. Use your owner's manual to help you locate the exact positioning of your motor mounts. The number of motor mounts may vary depending on your Mercedes model.
3. Visually examine the motor mounts. Observe if there are cracks, separations in the rubber from the metal, missing bolts, broken brackets, fluid leaking or warped or compressed rubber. Any of the visual signs of deterioration or damage will indicate that the motor mount needs to be changed.
4. Use a flat-head screwdriver to press down on the rubber part of the motor mount. If the rubber does not bounce right back into place and instead stays compressed, then you need to replace your motor mounts.
5. Start your Mercedes engine. Place your 'Emergency Brake' into the 'ON' position. Keep your foot tightly on the brake pedal while switching your Mercedes into the 'Drive' gear. With your foot pressed down on the brake pedal, slowly press down on the gas pedal to rev your engine. Monitor your rpm and do not allow the engine to enter the 'Red Zone' on your rpm dial, as this can damage your vehicle. If the engine revs and you do not feel a vibration by your feet, your engine mounts should be in good condition. Revving the engine will cause the engine to shake when the motor mounts are not securely holding the engine into place. The shaking will cause a noticeable vibration and shaking inside of the vehicle, which will let you know it is time to replace your motor mounts.
6. Drive your Mercedes around in an empty parking lot or on a street with little traffic. Press your foot on the gas pedal to accelerate. While accelerating, notice if you feel any vibrations. Abruptly press your foot on the brake. If the vehicle shakes from side to side while slowing down, then you need to replace your motor mounts.
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How to Change a BMW Stereo Amp


1. Disconnect the grounding cable from the BMW battery. The grounding cable connects the negative lead to the chassis of the vehicle. Use a 10 millimeter wrench to loosen the cable's clamp. Remove the cable from the lead and rest it away from the negative lead post.
2. Replace the ring terminal (included in the amplifier wiring kit) on the positive lead of the battery and route the new power supply wire into the cabin. Replace the rubber grommet in the opening of the firewall to protect the wiring. Remove the fuse from the ring terminal.
3. Remove the upper dash trim at the center of the dashboard. Pry the panel free at the bottom edge using a trim panel tool. Grab the panel and pull it free. Disconnect the power supply wire connected to the hazard button on the panel.
4. Remove the two screws at the top of the lower trim panel with a Phillips head screwdriver. Pull the lower panel free from the dash. Remove the screws on either side of the stereo deck and pull the stereo from the dash far enough to reach the wire connections in the rear.
5. Pull out the signal cable and turn-on lead from the stereo. Connect the new cables (from the amplifier wiring kit) to the stereo and route them from the deck to the location of the new amp.
6. Remove the old amplifier from the vehicle. Place the new amp into the previous amp's location. Connect the power supply cable, the signal cable, the turn-on lead and speaker wires to the new amplifier.
7. Replace the BMW stereo deck into the dash. Screw the two screws into the stereo mounting bracket. Replace the lower trim panel and replace the two screws at the top. Connect the hazard power wire to the upper trim panel and replace it on the dash.
8. Place the negative battery cable onto the negative battery lead. Tighten the clamp with a 10 millimeter wrench. Place the fuse into the fuse holder on the ring terminal.
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How to Polish Mercedes


1. Pull on a pair of rubber gloves.
2. Dab aluminum polish onto a clean microfiber towel.
3. Rub the polish onto the wheel in a back-and-forth motion.
4. Check the towel for black residue; this indicates that the polish is working.
5. Wipe the polish off the wheel with a different clean microfiber towel. Continue this process until the whole wheel is clean.
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How to Troubleshoot a BMW 325E Online


1. Visit AutoHauzAz (see Resources) and download a manual for the repair and maintenance of the BMW 325E. These manuals might even have more information than the one you originally had with the car. After you download the manual, you can search through it until you find answers to the questions you have about your BMW and how to fix its problems.
2. Go to an online car repair shop, such as AutoMotix. Use the 'Help Me Find' search bar at the top of the screen to input your specific questions about the BMW 325E. The search bar will return information about the questions you have and the car in general. You can use the information you obtain to troubleshoot any problems you may have.
3. Visit the forum at BimmerWerkz (see Resources). Sign up for the forum and read through some posts so you know how the forum works. Then post your questions or issues in the forum. You will get responses from many people. Some of these people will know what they are talking about, and others won't. When using a forum like this for information, it is important to keep in mind that it is user-generated and thus might not always be factual. However, with an older model like the BMW 325, the best sources you have are often people who love their BMWs so much that they spend a lot of time online talking about them. You may get some hints that you are willing to try out to troubleshoot your issues.
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How do I Change the Front Side Marker Lamp in a Mercedes C230 Compressor?


1. Open the hood of the vehicle. Locate the sidelamp light assembly latch between the sidelamp assembly and the main headlight compartment. It is located halfway down from the top of the assembly. Depress the latch and lift the sidelamp light assembly out to the front of the vehicle.
2. Twist the bulb socket located on the back of the sidelamp light assembly in a counterclockwise direction and gently pull it out of the assembly.
3. Remove the side marker bulb by pushing it into the socket and turning it counterclockwise. Insert the new bulb by pushing it into the socket and twisting it clockwise.
4. Place the bulb socket back into the assembly. Reinstall the lamp assembly by sliding the guides located at the top and bottom of the assembly near the front headlamp into the tabs. Make sure it is secured and sealed before closing the hood.
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How to Install the BMW 1994 318is Head


1. Remove the cable from the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Disconnect the intake and exhaust manifolds. Remove the cover from the ignition coil. Disconnect the electrical wires from the spark plugs and the ignition coil.
2. Disconnect the cover for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the radiator hoses from the engine, and disconnect the crankshaft position sensor from the crankshaft. Detach the thermostat housing for the thermostat, and remove the thermostat from the engine. Disconnect the mounting screws on the cover for the timing case, and remove the cover.
3. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand until the arrows on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets face straight up. Disconnect the tensioner for the timing chain with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting bolt on the right side of the upper guide for the timing chain, and disconnect the guide. Detach the timing chain from the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Remove the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.
4. Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench by loosening the bolts in several passes. Begin from the outside bolts and proceed to the inside bolts. Lift the cylinder head from the crankcase, and remove the cylinder head gasket on the engine block.
5. Remove all traces of the gasket from the crankcase and the cylinder head with a gasket scraper. Remove all debris from the new mounting bolts for the cylinder head. Install a new gasket for the cylinder head, using the markings on the gasket as a guide.
6. Mount the new cylinder head to the crankcase, and install the new mounting bolts for the cylinder head. Begin tightening the bolts in the center of the cylinder head and proceed outward in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the bolts to 24 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 93 degrees with a socket wrench on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts another 93 degrees on the third pass.
7. Turn the crankshaft clockwise so that its timing mark points straight up, and hold the crankshaft in place with tool 11-2-300. Turn the camshaft clockwise so that its timing mark points straight up, and hold the camshaft in place with tool 11-3-240. Mount camshaft sprockets to the camshaft so the arrows on the camshaft sprockets point straight up.
8. Tighten the mounting bolts on the camshaft to between 10 and 12 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Mount the timing chain onto the sprockets, and mount the upper guide for the timing chain. Fasten the bolt for the timing chain guide with a socket wrench.
9. Tap the tensioner housing with a rubber mallet to release the piston from the housing. Place the tensioner in a vise, and push the ends together to engage the snap rings. Place the tensioner into its bore on the crankcase, and tighten the tensioner plug to between 17 and 19 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Press the rail on the tensioner to release the piston.
10. Disconnect the holding tools on the camshaft and crankshaft. Place a new gasket on the upper timing case cover, and fill in any gaps between the gasket and timing case cover with non-hardening sealer.
11. Mount the cylinder head cover to the cylinder head. Tighten the 6-mm mounting bolts to between 6 and 7 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the 8-mm mounting bolts to between 15 and 17 foot-pounds. Install the thermostat with the vents facing up. Attach the thermostat housing and torque its mounting bolts to between 6 and 7 foot-pounds.
12. Install the crankshaft position sensor to the crankshaft, and attach the radiator hose to the crankcase. Replace the valve cover with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical wiring for the ignition coil and spark plugs. Install the ignition coil cover. Install the exhaust and intake manifolds.
13. Add coolant and oil as needed. Connect the cable for the battery cable using a socket wrench.
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How to Pair an iPhone to a BMW


1. Turn on your BMW so the key is at least in the 'Accessories' position and the car's electronics and stereo are powered on.
2. Tap 'Settings' on your iPhone, then 'General' and 'Bluetooth' to enter the Bluetooth menu. Ensure that the menu switch is turned to 'On' before proceeding.
3. Press down on your BMW's iDrive knob to enter the menu, then scroll to 'Settings' and select 'Bluetooth' to proceed.
4. Scroll to 'Phone' and then 'Pair new phone' and press down on the iDrive knob to select the menu item.
5. Note the Bluetooth passkey that is generated on your BMW's iDrive screen.
6. Tap the 'BMW' item that appears in the Bluetooth menu of your iPhone after Bluetooth has been turned on. Enter the passkey into your phone when prompted to pair your iPhone to your BMW using the Bluetooth connection.
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How to Remove the Gas Tank From a BMW 325


1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal first using a wrench. Engage the parking brake. Slide a drain pan underneath the gas tank's drain plug, before removing the plug and allowing all of the gas to drain out.
2. Remove the bottom seat cushion, then remove the covers on either side of the seat. Raise the rear of your car with a jack, placing a the car onto a pair of support stands. Detach the rear muffler section and driveshaft before attempting to remove the gas tank. To do this you will have to loosen the bolts holding the various components (ie. driveshaft and rear muffler section) into place. Spraying some penetrating oil onto the bolts may make it easier to remove them.
3. Detach all fuel lines connected to the tank using a specialized BMW fuel line removal tool you can find at most auto parts stores. Place another jack beneath the tank as you remove the straps holding the tank in place. The straps are secured with bolts on each end, which you will have to loosen with a socket wrench. Once you've removed all the straps and bolts, the tank will drop onto the jack.
4. Detach all fuel lines, filler hose and fuel pump from the tank while it sits on the jack. Perform any necessary repairs or replace the tank by reversing the previous steps. Finally, lower the car from the support stands and refill the gas tank.
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How to Change the Transmission Oil in an Automatic Audi TT 2993


1. Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and support it with jack stands. Slide the drain pan under the transmission. Remove the bolts, except for two bolts in one corner, on the transmission pan, using the appropriate socket. The pan will tip and most of the fluid will drain into the drain pan.
2. Remove the last two bolts and take the pan off the transmission. Clean the inside of the pan, magnet and gasket-mounting surfaces thoroughly, using the scraper and rag. Rinse the inside of the pan and the magnet with carburetor cleaner, then wipe everything with a clean rag.
3. Unbolt the transmission filter, using the appropriate socket. Discard the filter. Install the new filter. Fit the gasket to the transmission pan. Install the pan, ensuring that the gasket stays completely in line, and that the bolts go through the pan and the gasket, into the bottom of the transmission. Tighten the bolts firmly, but do not overtighten them and squash the gasket.
4. Lower the vehicle off the jack stands. Insert the funnel into the transmission dipstick tube. Pour 5 qts. of automatic transmission fluid into the pan. Start the vehicle and run it through the gears -- Reverse, Drive, Second and First -- at least twice. Leave the car running, and allow it to get to operating temperature.
5. Check the level of the transmission fluid on the dipstick. Top off with automatic transmission fluid as needed, 1 pt. at a time, and shift through the gears after every addition. Depending on the torque converter in the transmission, it could take up to 7.6 qts.
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