How to Remove a Mercedes Ignition Switch

1. Adjust the Mercedes telescoping steering wheel to the maximum extended position (maximum out position).
2. Move the front driver's seat to the rear-most position.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable by loosening the retaining nut on the negative battery cable clamp and sliding the clamp off the battery terminal.
4. Remove the screws on the underside of the instrument panel cluster that hold the instrument cluster cowl in place and remove the cowl.
5. Remove the four screws holding the instrument cluster in place and remove the instrument cluster from the dash. Make sure to remove the electrical connectors from the back of the instrument cluster before trying to completely remove the cluster.
6. Turn the ignition key to the 'I' position and remove the electrical plug in the back of the ignition switch. The switch should be exposed now that the cowl and instrument cluster have been removed. You will access the plug from the top of the ignition switch and cylinder assembly.
7. Loosen, but do not remove, the Allen bolt on top of the ignition cylinder that mates with the steering column using an Allen wrench.
8. Remove the two 13 mm bolts on top of the steering column. This will allow the steering column to drop down roughly 3 inches so that you can access the release button for the ignition switch.
9. Press the release button on the steering column where the ignition cylinder enters the column.
10. Turn the key to the 'I' position and remove the ignition cylinder and switch assembly by pulling it out of the steering column.
11. Remove the ignition wiring from the back of the ignition switch and cylinder assembly by pressing down on the release tab on the electrical connector and pulling it off the switch.

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How to Rotate amp; Balance the Tires on a BMW X5

1. Loosen the lug nuts that hold the X5's wheels on. You may want to use a breaker bar on the end of the tool that you are using.
2. Lift the BMW with a heavy duty floor jack and lower it onto jack stands at all four corners. Finish removing the lug nuts and the wheels, noting which corner of the vehicle each wheel was installed on.
3. Transport the wheels and tires to a tire shop with another vehicle so that the tire shop can balance the tires for you. Balancing tires should never be undertaken by an amateur, as it takes special tools and skills. Even if you have access to the equipment, do not do this unless you are familiar with the process of balancing tires.
4. Transport the wheels and tires back to where your X5 is supported on jack stands. If your X5 has the same size tires at all four corners, move the left rear wheel and tire to the left front, the left front to the back, the right rear to the front and the right front to the back.
5. If your X5 has staggered wheels, that is if the rear wheels are wider than the front wheels, do not perform any rotating. Simply replace the tires when they are worn. Lower the BMW off of the jack stands. Tighten the lug nuts on the wheels by hand with a tire iron.

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How to Maintain a 2003 Audi TT

1. Open your hood and remove the air filter. Hold it up to the light. You should be able to see through the filter. If you cannot, this means it's dirty and needs to be replaced. The purpose of the air filter is to filter out any debris that enters the air system. This prevents damage to your engine. Dirty air filters can cause clogs in your hoses and your Audi will run poorly with inadequate air flow.
2. Check your brakes during tire rotations and changes. Brakes should be replaced when they are about 75 to 80 percent worn. Any more, and they can cause damage and scoring into your rotors, which will require rotor replacement as well. How often you need to replace your brakes depends on how much driving you do. More driving and frequent stopping wears the pads out faster.
3. Change the oil in your Audi TT every 3,000 miles or at least every three months to keep the oil fresh. The oil lubricates the moving parts of your engine and keeps it clean. The oil filter will need to be changed with each oil change. This filters out dirt and debris that can cause engine damage and sludge. Check the oil level in your Audi every month to ensure there are no oil leaks and that your oil is at the correct level.
4. Check the air pressure in your tires often. Especially between seasons when the temperatures fluctuate. This can cause a decrease in pressure, which causes pull on the tires. This can wear out the tread on your tires faster. Make sure tires are always fully inflated. Replace the tires once the tread is fairly worn.
5. Get a tune up every couple years. This involves replacing all the spark plugs, hoses, and belts even if they do not look worn. Also, have the coolant flushed and replaced with new fluid. This will head of any possible mechanical problems before they have a chance to start. This prevents any air leakage that you may not know about with old hoses or squeaky belts. It helps keep the engine running smooth.
6. Clean your Audi's interior by vacuuming the seats and floors regularly. This will pick up any dirt or debris you may carry in on your shoes. It will keep it from getting ground into the fabric and causing stains. Wash the outside of your car often and apply a coat of wax a couple times a year. This will prevent fading of the paint.

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How to Remove the Cup Holder From a C280

1. Insert a slotted screwdriver into the panel on top of the cup holder.
2. Pry off this panel by pushing the handle of the screwdriver forward. This should push out the corner of the panel. Place your fingers on the panel and pull it off the car. Set it aside.
3. Place your hand on the clip the holds the cup holder in its place. Press the top of the clip to release the clips grasp. Pull the clip away from the cup holder. Do the same for the clip on the other side of the cup holder.
4. Grasp the cup holder and pull it towards your body.

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How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor for a 2002 Audi A4

1. Jack up on the front of your Audi A4 under the front jack point behind the radiator, using the floor jack.
2. Place jack stands under the front pinch welds of the vehicle and lower the Audi onto the stands.
3. Climb under the vehicle and disconnect the electrical connector from the oxygen sensor.
4. Unbolt the oxygen sensor from the exhaust using an O2 sensor socket and socket wrench.
5. Remove the sensor and thread the new sensor into the exhaust. Tighten the sensor using a socket wrench and O2 sensor socket.
6. Reconnect the electrical leads to the sensor.
7. Lower the A4 to the ground using the floor jack.

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How to Remove the Low Beam Headlights in a 1995 530I BMW

1. Open the hood and locate the black plastic cover on the backside of the headlight housing assembly. The low beams on your BMW 530i will be covered by this black plastic cover.
2. Unplug the electrical connector from the back of the headlight.
3. Rotate the black plastic cover counter-clockwise with your fingers and pull it off of the back of the housing.
4. Rotate the square headlight collar counter-clockwise and pull the headlight out of the back of the headlight.
5. Insert a new headlight and rotate it clockwise to lock it into the housing.
6. Replace the black plastic cover and plug the electrical connector back in.

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How to Install an Air Max Filter in a C230

1. Pull the hood release lever next to the driver's seat. Raise the hood and prop it open with the support arm.
2. Locate the air filter box. On the C230, the air filter box is just to the left of the engine, and it is contoured so that the right side of the box hugs the left side of the engine. You can also identify it by the thick, ridged plastic tube that runs from the front of the air filter box to the intake manifold.
3. Locate the four silver metal clips around the lid of the air filter box and flip them all up. Lift the lid off the air filter box and set it aside.
4. Pull the old air filter out of the air filter box. If you're not entirely sure that you're ready for a new filter, examine the old one closely. If it looks relatively clean, you could consider putting it back in and using it for a while longer. Otherwise, discard it.
5. Place the Air Max filter in the air filter box.
6. Replace the lid to the air filter box and snap down all of the metal clips.
7. Hold the hood while you lower the support arm, then close the hood firmly.

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How to Change the Timing Belt on an Audi A4

1. Park the Audi on level ground.
2. Lift the front portion of the Audi using a jack and rest it on axle stands.
3. Remove the two screws from the wheel wells and the six screws from the Audi's underpan by turning a screwdriver counterclockwise.
4. Take off the two lower grilles and the bolts found near the Audi's fog lights by turning an Allen wrench counterclockwise.
5. Grab and remove the Audi's headlight washer hose, found by the driver's side lower grille. Put a bucket under the Audi's front bumper to collect any fluid that will drain out.
6. Jerk the front bumper from the Audi in an upward, then downward motion to remove it. Grab and take off the horn and headlight wiring and turn signal bulbs on either side of the Audi's front end.
7. Remove all three driver's side headlight screws and the four passenger's side headlight screws found under the headlights by turning a T45 Torx screwdriver counterclockwise.
8. Take off the two screws found above the headlights and the two screws found at the sides of the headlights by turning a T30 Torx screwdriver counterclockwise.
9. Grab and take off the lock carrier from the Audi's fan, as well as the wiring and timing belt cover, then unscrew all four bolts from the fan by turning an Allen wrench counterclockwise. Slide the fan away from the Audi.
10. Loosen the two A/C compressor bolts to take off the A/C compressor belt and jerk the spring-loaded tensioner found by the fan using a crescent wrench to reveal and remove the Audi's serpentine belt.
11. Take off the damper pulley from below the Audi's fan by unscrewing its four bolts counterclockwise using a metric wrench. Hold the damper pulley with a breaker bar. Remove the lower timing belt cover by unscrewing its three bolts.
12. Turn the damper pulley crank clockwise to line up the cam sprocket and valve cover with their marked sides. Then unscrew the three bolts that hold in the tensioner and the bolt that holds in the guide pulley. Install a new tensioner to the guide pulley. A tensioner and a new timing belt can be purchased with a timing belt kit from most auto parts shops.
13. Unscrew the guide pulley's bolt from its brass-colored portion, take off the timing belt, then place a new timing belt at the Audi's sprockets. Assemble the guide pulley with an Allen wrench, then take out the new tensioner's pin using your fingers.
14. Install all of the Audi's components back in their places by performing these steps in reverse. Remove the axle stands from the Audi to lower the vehicle.

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How to Turn up a Turbo

1. Purchase a twist-type manual boost controller. These in-line check valves have a spring mechanism inside which, when you twist the MBC (manual boost controller) body together, receives more pre-load to keep the valve shut longer.
2. Locate the waste gate diaphragm on the base of the turbocharger. It will look like a small flying saucer with an armature coming out of one end and a rubber vacuum line (boost sensor line) coming out of the top. Follow it back to the intake manifold or pressure tube.
3. Cut a 2-inch section from the boost sensor line. Where you make the cut isn't important; just cut where you'll have easy access for later adjustment.
4. Screw the body of your MBC counter-clockwise until the ends are hanging together by just two threads. This will release the pre-load on your spring to prevent an overboost the first time you fire the engine.
5. Slip a hose clamp over the turbo side of your sensor line and plug the MBC into the line. Some MBCs will have an arrow on the exterior to indicate the turbo side; on others you'll find 'boost' or 'turbo' printed.
6. Slip another hose clamp over the intake side of the line, and plug the line into the MBC. Tighten the hose on the turbo side hose clamp completely, but do not completely tighten the intake side.
7. Start the car and slowly raise the rpm while closely monitoring the boost gauge. At this point, it should read no higher than it did stock.
8. Hold the rpm at about 4,000 rpm while an assistant slowly screws the body of the MBC together. Keep a close eye on your boost gauge.
9. Once you have the boost set at your desired level, have your assistant tighten down the intake-side hose clamp and MBC lock nut, if so equipped.

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How to Fix a Rough Idle

1. Drive the vehicle to a reputable service center that has a code scanner. If your vehicle has a universal scanner jack installed under the dashboard, the technician will hook a code scanner up to it and retrieve data from any failing component or system.
2. Place the transmission in Neutral or Park. Apply the emergency brake and raise the hood. Look for any disconnected or cracked vacuum lines attached to the carburetor or intake manifold. Refer to your owner's manual for the location of the EGR vacuum hose, PVC vacuum hose and the hose leading to the brake booster diaphragm. Check all rubber vacuum lines that lead to engine compartment switching valves. Check for tight connections on any sensors, such as the electronic choke and throttle positioner.
3. Start the engine and let it warm up. Make sure the choke linkage deactivates completely upon engine warming. Use a pair of insulated plug wire pliers to pull each plug wire from the plug location. Note any drop in engine speed -- this will be normal. No drop indicates a problem with a plug wire or spark plug. Shut the engine off. Use a plug socket to remove each plug from the head.
4. Check the condition of each plug. They should be light brown or tan in color. Any plug that shows heavy encrustation (white or brown), black coloring or appears wet must be replaced. Check the gaps of the plugs using a feeler gauge. Refer to your owner's service manual for the correct plug gap. Depress the spark plug electrode down to the proper thickness of the appropriate gauge width.
5. Reinstall the plugs and start the engine. Recheck your plug wires again with the insulated pliers. Hold the spark plug end connector against the engine block. No spark indicates a bad wire. Replace the wire by disconnecting it from the spark plug tip and the coil or coil pack. Check your service manual for the proper procedure. Some plug wires connect underneath a plenum cover, or down within the valve cover.
6. Locate the idle speed and idle mixture screws on the carburetor, if so equipped. The speed screw will attach to the carburetor linkage and activate a cam. The mixture screws will sit below it and be attached to the base of the carburetor. To increase the idle speed, turn the speed screw inward (clockwise) to raise the idle. Use a screwdriver to turn the mixture screws in or out (one at a time) to achieve the highest rpm speed. Adjusting the idle speed or mixture will sometimes straighten out a rough idle.
7. Shut the engine off. Hook up the positive and negative leads of a timing light to the positive and negative leads of the vehicle battery. Attach the plug clip to the number one cylinder. See your service manual for the number one plug position on your vehicle, as well as the proper timing setting, measured in degrees.
8. Start the engine and aim the timing light at the steering damper (crankcase pulley), and read the degrees on the damper and tab marks. If the timing marks do not align, loosen the distributor base bolt with a socket and turn the distributor to achieve the correct degrees, according to your service manual specifications. If you have a vacuum advance hose leading to the distributor, disconnect it before checking the timing. Reconnect it after the timing check. Tighten the distributor base bolt with a socket.
9. Turn off the engine. Look for an in-line fuel filter on your vehicle. Refer to your service manual for its location. It could be in the engine compartment or routed under or alongside the chassis frame leading to the gas tank. Use a screwdriver to remove the hose clamps on the fuel filter. Plug both hose ends with spare bolts. Blow through the fuel filter at both ends. If obstructed, replace it with a new one. Reconnect the hoses to the new fuel filter and tighten the clamps with a screwdriver.
10. Remove the lid to the cold air intake box or air cleaner housing using a socket or unclasping the snaps. Examine the air cleaner element by holding it up against the sunlight. You should be able to see daylight through the element fibers. Tap it firmly on the pavement to remove excess dust. If the filter has oil on it, or appears clogged, replace it.
11. Hold a stethoscope over each fuel injector if you have a fuel injected system. Fuel injectors normally buzz when the engine runs. No buzzing indicates a failed injector. Hook the negative lead of a voltmeter up to an engine ground source and the positive lead up to the electrical connector on the fuel injector. Refer to your owner's service manual for the correct injector voltage. No voltage at the injector indicates a problem with the wiring or vehicle computer.
12. Locate the EGR valve on your vehicle. Consult your owner's service manual for its location. Most EGR valves connect to the intake manifold directly by use of a hose and flange attachment. Look for the plunger mechanism on the EGR valve. Have an assistant rev the engine. The plunger should activate, moving in and out. No activations means a defective or clogged EGR valve.
13. Disconnect the hose at its farthest point from the EGR valve and feel the end for exhaust gas pressure with the engine idling. No pressure indicates a problem with the valve itself or the exhaust system.

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