How to Remove the Fuel Tank in a 1982 Mercedes 300D


1. Open the trunk. Take out the floor of the trunk and the intermediate shelf using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Unplug the wiring to the fuel gauge using your hands.
2. Remove the hose clamps securing the fuel lines to the gas tank using the flathead screwdriver. Pull the fuel lines off of the tanks by hand.
3. Place the head of the jack under the tank. Unbolt the fuel tank from the underside of the Mercedes' chassis using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Carefully lower the tank down from the chassis with the jack, then pull the tank out from under the car.
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How to Open a Gas Tank on an Audi


1. Unlock the doors of the Audi. If the doors are locked, the tank flap will not open.
2. Flip open the gas tank flap.
3. Turn the circular tank cap counterclockwise. The cap is located underneath the tank flap.
4. Remove the tank cap from the Audi.
5. Hook the tank cap at the top of the flap to prevent the cap from getting misplaced.
6. Pump fuel into the gas tank of the Audi.
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How do I Use the Control for the Seat Settings on a 2004 Audi A4?


1. Park the Audi A4 on level ground.
2. Press onto the left side of the switch to raise or lower the front portion of the seat.
3. Press onto the right side of the switch to raise or lower the rear portion of the seat.
4. Press on both the left and right sides of the switch to raise or lower the entire seat bottom.
5. Press at the center of the switch to move the seat forward or backward.
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How to Replace a Windshield Washer Pump in a 1997 BMW


1. Park your BMW on a flat surface, such as in a garage, and set the parking brake. Unlatch the hood of your vehicle and raise it to access the engine. Locate the washer fluid reservoir and place the drain pan on the floor of the garage directly underneath the reservoir. Open the filler cap and reach down until you find the rubber hose connected at the bottom. Pull this hose off and allow it to drain into the pan on the floor.
2. Locate the power wire for the reservoir pump and unplug it from its connection. Use the sockets or wrenches to remove the mounting bolts on either side of the reservoir. Remove the fluid container from the engine and set it to the side with the mounting bolts.
3. Unlatch the wiring harness plug from the washer pump and free it from the firewall. Pay attention to the way the pump sets against the rubber grommet and how the fluid hose connects to the reservoir, as your new pump will come with a new rubber grommet and fluid hose. Mount the new pump in the same position until it's up against the firewall; reattach the wiring harness.
4. Place the fluid reservoir back into its original place and connect the hose from the pump into the nipple on the bottom of the reservoir. Reconnect the wiring to the fluid transfer case and rethread the mounting bolts back into place. Tighten them with a wrench or the socket set. Fill the reservoir with fluid and close the hood of your vehicle. Start the engine and test the new pump until fluid comes out onto your windshield.
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How to Drain the Coolant in a 2002 BMW 325i E46


Draining the System
1. Park the vehicle and allow it to cool or wait long enough so that you can place your hand on the radiator for 10 seconds without discomfort. Remove the cap from the coolant overflow tank, then loosen the vent plug on the tank.
2. Unbolt the underbody paneling under the radiator to access the drain plug on the radiator and engine. Place a catch pan under the radiator, then turn the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator counterclockwise. Be ready for a rush of possibly warm fluid, and don't get any in your eyes. Wait for the coolant flow to stop, then pour the contents of the catch pan into a five-gallon bucket with a lid.
3. Repeat this procedure with the drain plug on the bottom of the coolant expansion tank; it should be readily visible and accessible from under the car. Finally, locate the coolant drain plug on the engine block. You'll find it just under the exhaust manifolds, near the center of the engine. Drain the coolant and dump it into the bucket. Reinstall all the drain plugs, and tighten each to 8 to 10 foot-pounds.
Refilling the System
4. Prepare a 50/50 mix of purified drinking water and BMW coolant Part No. 82 14 1 467 704, or just buy pre-mixed antifreeze approved for use in this application. Set the heater controls to maximum and set the heater fan to the lowest speed; this will engage the auxiliary heater pump, and flush the heater core of any remaining fluid.
5. Start the engine, and begin slowly adding water/coolant mixture to the coolant overflow tank. Make sure the vent valves remain open, or you'll end up with air trapped in the system. Continue slowly filling the system with coolant until the coolant backs up into the overflow tank and stays at the "Cold Fill" line.
6. Close the coolant vent plugs, check for leaks and replace the cap on the overflow tank. Check the coolant level after driving about 50 miles; there may have been a bit of air trapped in the system, and it will gradually "burp" out as the system pressurizes. Add coolant as necessary to reach the "Cold Fill" line on the overflow tank.
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How to Test the IAC Valve on a BMW 525I


1. Place the BMW’s transmission into Park (automatic) or neutral (manual transmission) and apply the parking brake. Leave the engine running.
2. Connect a scan tool to the BMW’s diagnostic data port, which is under the dashboard just above the pedals on the driver’s side.
3. Power on the scan tool and choose “Bi-Directional Tests” from the main menu. Select “IAC Valve Actuation” from the tests menu.
4. Use the scan tool’s buttons to open and close the IAC valve. The idle speed should rise and lower without pressing the accelerator. If the IAC valve does not respond to the scan tool by raising and lowering the engine idle speed, then it is faulty.
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How to Initialize Keys for a BMW 328LS


1. Close all of the doors to your BMW 328i LS. While sitting in your car, place the key in the ignition and turn it until it clicks one time and then turn it back to the off position. Repeat this an additional four times before removing the key from the ignition completely.
2. Hold down the button on your keyless entry remote that unlocks your BMW's doors. Continue to hold down the unlock button and push the lock button three times. You will hear your BMW doors lock and unlock at this point, which is required to ensure you are correctly performing the programming phase.
3. Put your key back in the ignition and turn it one time until it clicks and then remove it. Test your new remotes.
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My Automatic Transmission Won#039;t Shift Into 2nd Gear


1. Check your transmission fluid levels first. Many times low fluid levels can adversely affect automatic transmission function and result in all kinds of performance issues, including the inability to shift into second gear. If your levels are good, move to the next step.
2. Reset your computer system. Resetting your car's onboard computer system can sometimes fix a programming issue and return your transmission to working order. Disconnect the battery completely and leave it off for 30 minutes. Reconnect the battery and allow the car five minutes to reset. Test the car by driving through the gears.
3. Bring your car to a licensed mechanic for a computer diagnostics test. If your car is a late-model vehicle with a computerized transmission, your best course of action may be to have a diagnostics test done at your local service station. The computer may have to be reset to return transmission performance to normal. The problem may not be mechanical at all.
4. Adjust or replace your throttle cables. If your car is not computerized, the problem may lie with a faulty throttle cable preventing timely shifting or any shifting at all. If your car has vacuum modulators instead of throttle cables, an adjustment could also help the situation.
5. Have a transmission diagnostic test done at your local transmission specialist. If all else fails bring it to the experts. Your problem may be a gear issue or a throttle body failure which will both have to be taken care of by a professional.
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How to Replace Motor Mounts On a Mercedes Benz


1. Pop the hood of your Mercedes Benz to inspect the motor mounts. Common causes of malfunction include loose or fractured mounts. Reference the service manual for your model of Mercedes Benz for more specific instructions on locating the motor mounts. If the mounts are simply loose, you may only need to tighten them.
2. Set up a hydraulic jack underneath the engine of your car. Lift the engine of your Mercedes Benz with the jack until the stress has been removed from the motor mounts.
3. Check the flexible joint on your Mercedes Benz motor mounts for operational quality. Joints on motor mounts may become inflexible over time, reducing the mounts' ability to secure the engine without transferring physical shock while the vehicle is in motion. With the pressure relieved from the mounts, you can check the flexibility of each motor mount's rubber-coated joint with a screwdriver. Use your screwdriver to poke the rubber coating on the motor mount and note if the coating has any give to it. If the rubber is inflexible, the mount must be replaced.
4. Remove the motor mounts from your Mercedes Benz. Use a socket wrench and an appropriately-sized bit to remove the bolt securing the mounts to both the engine and other fixtures in the car hood. Some mounts can be removed through the top of the hood while others may need to be removed from underneath due to fixtures blocking the mounts from above.
5. Install your replacement motor mounts into the car hood of your Mercedes Benz. Mounting bolts will be included in the replacement motor mount packaging. Secure the motor mounts by tightening bolts in the appropriate locations with your socket wrench and wrench bit.
6. Release the hydraulic jack slowly to lower the engine of your Mercedes Benz. Close the car hood.
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How to Change the Brake Pads on a BMW 328


1. Loosen the lug nuts that hold the BMW's wheels on with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and lower it onto jack stands at all four corners. Finish removing the lug nuts and the wheels and set them out of the way.
2. Spray brake cleaner on the brakes at all four corners of the vehicle and wipe everything down with a clean, dry rag.
3. On the front driver's side, remove the pad-wear cable from the retaining clip. Remove the plastic covers on the caliper guide bolts, located on the side facing the wheel well on the top and bottom of the caliper.
4. Loosen the upper and lower guide bolts with a 7 mm Allen wrench. Push the bolts out with a thin screwdriver and set them aside. Pry out the anti-rattle clip on the caliper with a screwdriver.
5. Slide the caliper assembly off the rotor. Support the caliper with a piece of wire tied to the suspension or with a platform so there is no weight on the brake line. Disconnect the wear sensor wire from the inner brake pad. Remove the brake pads.
6. Compress the caliper piston to make room for the new, thicker brake pads. Remove the lid on the brake fluid reservoir. Remove some of the brake fluid with a syringe so the fluid does not spill out of the reservoir. Use a wooden handle leveraged against the piston to push it into the caliper. You can also use an adjustable wrench or a C-clamp to press the piston in.
7. Install the new brake pads in the same orientation that the old pads were removed. The inner pad is installed by pressing the metal clip into the caliper piston. The outer pad slides into the slot in the caliper carrier. Reconnect the pad wear sensor.
8. Slide the caliper over the rotor and install the caliper retaining bolts, tightening them firmly. Reinstall the anti-rattle clip and the caps that go on the caliper bolts. Reattach the pad sensor cable to the clip. Move to the rear.
9. Release the parking brake. On the passenger side remove the brake pad wear sensor cable from the retaining clip. Remove the plastic covers on the caliper guide bolts, located on the side facing the wheel well, on the top and bottom of the caliper.
10. Loosen the upper and lower guide bolts with a 7 mm Allen wrench. Push the bolts out with a thin screwdriver and set them aside. Pry out the anti-rattle clip on the caliper with a screwdriver.
11. Slide the caliper assembly off the rotor. Support the caliper with a piece of wire tied to the suspension or with a platform so there is no weight on the brake line. Disconnect the wear sensor wire from the inner brake pad. Remove the brake pads. Compress the caliper piston using the same method as you did on the front.
12. Install the new brake pads in the same orientation that the old pads were removed. The inner pad is installed by pressing the metal clip into the caliper piston. The outer pad slides into the slot in the caliper carrier. Reconnect the pad wear sensor.
13. Slide the caliper over the rotor and install the caliper retaining bolts, tightening them firmly. Reinstall the anti-rattle clip and the caps that go on the caliper bolts. Reattach the pad sensor cable to the clip. Replace the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Check the brake fluid level. Top it off if necessary.
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