How to Replace the Front Brakes on a 1997 Audi A4

Single-Caliper-Piston System
1. Unscrew the lid from the master cylinder reservoir and siphon out about half of the fluid from the master cylinder with a clean turkey baster. Transfer the siphoned fluid to a small, sealable container and seal the container.
2. Loosen the front wheel bolts with a ratchet and socket, and raise the front of the A4 with a floor jack. Position jack stands under the vehicle’s subframe and lower the A4 onto the jack stands. Remove the wheel bolts and remove the front wheels.
3. Pull the ends of the outer brake pad retainer – the metal spring spanning the rear of the outer brake pad – from the holes in the caliper with needle-nose pliers. Pull the outer brake pad retainer from the caliper and outer brake pad.
4. Pry the rubber caps from the brake caliper guide pins with a small flat-head screwdriver. Loose the caliper guide pins with a ratchet and hex-bit socket, and pull the caliper guide pins from the caliper.
5. Pull the caliper up and off the caliper bracket, and suspend it from the coil spring with a bungee cord. Do not allow the caliper to hang by its rubber hose. Pull the old brake pads off the caliper bracket.
6. Remove the two caliper bracket bolts with a ratchet and socket, and pull the caliper bracket off the front hub.
7. Disengage the rotor retaining screw with a Phillips screwdriver. If the screw will not turn easily, lightly tap the head of it with a hammer to free it. Pull the rotor from the front hub. If the rotor is stuck, lightly tap the rear of it with a rubber mallet to free it.
8. Inspect the front and rear of the rotor for any visual defects, including: deep grooves, signs of grinding, hot spots or mirror-like shine. Replace the rotor with a new one if any defects exist.
9. Set the rotor on the front hub, lining up the screw hole on the rotor with that on the front hub. Tighten the rotor-retaining screw with a Phillips screwdriver.
10. Install the caliper bracket on the front hub and hand-tighten it retaining bolts. Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to 92 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.
11. Set the old inner brake pad in the caliper, so it contacts the caliper piston. Position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper, so the fixed part touches the rear of the caliper and the screw part touches the brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp to press the caliper piston into the caliper. Once the C-clamp stops moving, loosen it and remove it and the brake pad.
12. Install new brake pads into the caliper bracket, position the inner brake so the arrow engraved on it points downward.
13. Clean the caliper guide pins with a clean, lint-free cloth and apply a thin coat of new disc brake grease to the smooth part of the caliper guide pin. Insert the guide pins into the caliper and hand-tighten them. Torque the caliper guide pins to 11 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and hex-bit socket.
14. Insert the straight ends of a new outer brake pad retainer – included with the new brake pads – into the small holes on the outside of the caliper. Press the outer brake pad retainer toward the brake pad until it seats in the grooves in the caliper. Press the rubber covers back into place over the caliper guide pins.
15. Repeat Steps 3 through 14 to replace the brakes on the other side of the A4.
16. Reinstall the front wheels on the A4’s hubs and hand-tighten the wheel bolts. Raise the Audi off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to 89 foot-pounds.
17. Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm, then check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Add DOT 4 brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir until the level reaches the “Max” line.
18. Take the old brake fluid in the sealed container to a used-automotive-fluid-recycling center for disposal. Many auto parts stores take old brake fluid free of charge.
Dual-Caliper-Piston System
19. Follow Steps 1 and 2 in the section titled “Single Piston Brake Removal” to remove excess brake fluid, raise the A4 and remove its wheels.
20. Remove the two Torx bolts securing the outer brake pads with a ratchet and Torx-bit socket. Pull the two outer brake pads from the caliper through the hole above each brake pad.
21. Press and hold the button on the brake pad wear sensor wiring harness, and unplug the harness from the A4’s harness. Press the caliper toward the inside of the A4 until it stops moving.
22. Insert a flat-head screwdriver between the topmost brake pad and the caliper carrier’s body, and pry the brake pad toward the rotor to disengage the pad’s retaining clips. Pull the pad from the caliper, through the hole directly above the brake pad. Repeat this step to remove the lower, inside brake pad.
23. Unfasten the caliper carrier retaining bolts with a ratchet and Torx-bit socket. Pull the caliper carrier assembly off the front hub and hang it from the strut spring with a bungee cord. Never allow the caliper to hang by its rubber hose, as this can cause severe damage.
24. Remove, inspect and reinstall the front rotor by following Steps 7 through 9 in the section titled “Single Piston Brake Removal.”
25. Set the caliper carrier back into place on the front hub and hand-tighten the caliper carrier retaining bolts. Torque the caliper carrier retaining bolts to 148 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and Torx-bit socket.
26. Slide the upper inner brake pad into the upper inside hole in the caliper carrier. Line up the fingers on the rear of the brake pad with the caliper piston and press the pad toward the piston until the fingers insert fully into the caliper piston – use extreme care not to puncture the dust boot around the piston. Repeat this step on the lower inner brake pad.
27. Plug the brake pad wear sensor into the A4’s wiring harness.
28. Press the caliper carrier outward until it stops moving. Slide the upper outer brake pad into the caliper carrier and hand tighten its retaining bolt. Slide the lower outer brake pad into the caliper and hand-tighten its retaining bolt. Torque the brake pad retaining bolts to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and Torx-bit socket.
29. Repeat Steps 2 through 10 to replace the brakes on the other side of the A4.
30. Reinstall the front wheels, pressurize the brake system and refill the brake master cylinder by following Steps 16 through 18 in the section titled “Single Piston Brake Removal.”

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Removing the Coolant Reservoir in a BMW Z4

1. Release the hood by pulling the lever under the dashboard on the driver's side. Push the hood up until it's fully open.
2. Locate the coolant reservoir in the back of the engine on the driver's side, next to the wheel well. Place a pan under the reservoir to collect any coolant that drips out.
3. Detach the bolts that hold the reservoir in place, using a socket wrench. The bottom bolt is 10 millimeters, and the two on the front side are 11 and 13 millimeters.
4. Detach the hoses from the reservoir by removing the clamps with a Philips screwdriver. Wait for all the liquid to drain into the pan below. Lift the coolant reservoir tank out.

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How to Replace a Fog Light on a BMW

Removing the Fog Light
1. Disconnect the ground wire from the battery of your BMW. The ground wire is the black wire connecting the battery to the frame of your BMW.
2. Find the access openings for your fog light. These are located at the upper-right inside corner of your fog light.
3. Open the clips in the access opening with a screwdriver. These spring-loaded detaining clips should release if you push forward on them with the screwdriver. The fog light will fall forward along the side hinge, which on the opposite side of the detaining clips.
4. Pull out the fog light, bringing it away from the hinge.
Installing the Fog Light
5. Remove the protective covering on your new lens. Submerge the new light in hot water to peel the protective film off of the new light.
6. Add a thin bead of sealant around the new fog light lens.
7. Insert the fog light along the hinge of the access opening.
8. Press the fog light into the access opening for several minutes to allow the sealant to firm, gluing the light in place.
9. Reconnect the ground wire to the battery and the body of your BMW.

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Can I Change My Own Battery on My 1999 BMW 328I?

1. Plug the battery backup tool into the cigarette lighter (auxiliary power outlet). This is just a small 9-volt battery attached to a plug suitable to plug into this outlet. It will supply just enough power to keep the circuits and memories alive.
2. Open the trunk and remove the battery cover on the right side of the trunk floor. Remove the battery negative terminal connector with the use of a wrench. Remove the battery positive terminal connector. Loosen and remove the battery hold-down clamp using a wrench. Disconnect the battery vent tube. Lift the battery out of the car.
3. Install the new battery and tighten the hold down clamp using a wrench. Install the vent tube to the nipple on the top side of the battery and make sure the hose passes through the hole in the floor. Install the positive battery cable connector on the positive terminal on the battery and tighten it with a wrench.
4. Install the battery negative cable to the negative terminal on the battery and tighten it with a wrench. Re-install the battery cover on the trunk floor. Unplug the battery backup.

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How to Troubleshoot the 1983 Mercedes 230 E

1. Walk around the 230 and look for any impact dents. If the sedan was in a crash then the dents will be knee high and could indicate structural damage in that section as well. Go below the car and look at the car frame for any deformations of weld lines. The frame will have weld lines where the struts meet, but if there is a weld line in the middle of a strut then that means it was snapped in half and re-welded. Do not buy a re-welded vehicle, as this compromises the car's ability to survive a crash.
2. Look for any rust on the frame and body. Rust will show as a brown patina that indicates oxidation has set in on the steel. Rusted body panels can be replaced, but rusted car frames cannot. Pay special attention to rust on the metal straps that hold up the muffler as these are often the first ones to go.
3. Look at the disc brakes for any signs of warping or worn-out brake pads. The 230 was notable for including vacuum-assisted disc brakes as standard in an age where drum brakes were still prevalent. However, hard use or accidents could warp the discs and make them less efficient. The brake pads should still have pads in them, though it is likely that the original Mercedes brake pads have been replaced with third-party ones due to the exorbitant cost of vintage Mercedes parts.
4. Press down on each corner to test out the spring suspension. The corner should bounce back up immediately. If the corner takes a few seconds or if it stays down, then the springs are shot and need to be replaced. Springs wear out over time, especially in heavier cars like the 230. Visually inspect the springs for any cracks. If the spring is cracking then it is only a matter of time before it snaps and becomes useless.

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How to Care for Leatherette in a BMW

1. Research leatherette cleaning products on the Internet or at an auto store. Read the labels on car upholstery cleaners to find a vinyl or multi-surface auto upholstery cleaner within your budget. Purchase the cleaner.
2. Vacuum the interior of the automobile to remove dirt and debris from the leatherette on your seats, armrests and headrests.
3. Pour lukewarm water into a spray bottle. Spray the leatherette with water. Wipe the sprayed areas with a clean terrycloth towel.
4. Squirt dish detergent into your spray bottle. Add more lukewarm water if necessary. Shake the spray bottle to create suds. Spray the mixture on leatherette stains. Scrub the stains with a clean terrycloth towel. Wait five minutes for the leatherette to dry.
5. Spray a hidden patch of leatherette underneath your front seat with the purchased cleaner from Step 1. Check the sprayed patch in five minutes to ensure that the cleaner did not leave a stain.
6. Spray and rub the cleaner into the remainder of the leatherette with a clean terry cloth towel. Leave the cleaner on the leatherette for five minutes to condition it.
7. Wipe the cleaner off with a clean terry cloth towel.
8. Spray the leatherette with water and wipe it down with a clean terry cloth towel to reduce stickiness from the cleaner.

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How to Reset the Service Indicator on Mercedes

1. Turn your key to position 2 to power on the battery or turn the key all the way to start the engine on. Either option will allow you to reset the service indicator.
2. Press either of the two buttons on the left side of your steering wheel featuring arrows pointing to the left and right to find the menu displaying the mileage. The menu options will appear on the screen underneath the speedometer.
3. Press either the up or down arrow button until you see the service symbol displayed.
4. Press the trip odometer reset button on the left side of the instrument panel for three seconds until the menu asks, 'Do you want to reset the service interval? Confirm with the R-button.'
5. Press the trip odometer reset button again to complete the reset process.

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How to Change the Oil for a 2004 Mercedes

1. Turn off the engine of your Mercedes and leave it until it has completely cooled down. Place newspaper or an old sheet underneath your vehicle to prevent you spilling oil on your driveway.
2. Place a car jack underneath your vehicle. Raise the vehicle off the ground. Support the car jack with the use of jack stands.
3. Move the drain pan underneath the oil filter. Remove the drain plug located at the bottom of the filter. Drain the oil into the pan. Once the filter has emptied, use a wrench to remove the bolts attached to the filter. Lift the filter from the vehicle.
4. Place the new oil into the oil filter. Fill the filter two-thirds of the way up to prevent any overfill or spillage. Reattach the oil filter back on to the vehicle with the mounting bolts.
5. Lower your vehicle off the jack. Open up the hood of your vehicle. Remove the oil cap from the engine. Pour the oil into the engine. Reattach the oil cap.

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How to Replace an Audi Fuel Pump

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable with the socket wrenches and crawl under the car near the rear bumper to locate the gas tank. Find the gas line running from the front of the gas tank toward the front of the car and disconnect it with the pliers and screwdriver.
2. Use the socket wrenches to remove the mounting bolts on the straps securing the tank to the bottom of the car. Place the jack beneath the tank and lower it down slowly.
3. Use the screwdriver to remove the screws in the fuel pump mount on top of the gas tank, then use the pliers to pull the tubes off of the ends of the fuel pump.
4. Slide the gas lines onto the proper fittings of the new fuel pump, slide the pump back into the mount, and then tighten down the mounting screws with the screwdriver.
5. Raise the tank back up into the mounting straps and resecure the bolts. Slide the gas line back onto the gas tank and start the car up to make sure the pump is connected properly.

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How to Get the Radio Code for a 2001 E320

1. Obtain the radio's five-digit access code from the radio code card supplied with the vehicle. If the code card is unavailable, the access code can be obtained from a Mercedes Benz dealership.
2. Turn the E320 key to position 1 or 2 to enable the radio power and turn on the radio. 'CODE' will appear in the radio display.
3. Enter the radio code using the alpha-numeric keypad on the right side of the radio face.
4. Press the 'OK' key to confirm the entry and activate the radio.

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