How to Change Flat Tire on a Mercedes Car

1. Drive your car to the side of the road in a safest spot as possible where you will avoid oncoming traffic. Park your car in a flat place, so you can easily jack up the car. Put on the parking brake and your hazard lights.
2. Locate your Mercedes-Benz spare tire, lug wrench, and car jack located in the trunk of your car. Lift up the trunk liner to find the tire and tools. The Mercedes jack is like any other jack. It just needs to be opened to the primary position in order to work.
3. Loosen the lug nuts on the flat tire with the lug wrench. The five lug nuts are located around the Mercedes star logo in the center of the rim. Do not remove the lug, only loosen them about one turn.
4. Place the jack under the car and raise the Mercedes until the tire is about 1 1/2 inches off the ground. If you look under the car you will see a flat area where your jack will fit. If you are changing a front tire, the jack point will be behind the inner part of the tire. If you are changing a back tire, the jack point will be in front of the inner part of the tire. Refer to your Mercedes-Benz owner's manual for an exact picture of the jacking points.
5. Use the lug wrench to completely remove all five lug nuts, then pull the tire straight out to remove it. You may need to kick the tire to loosen it before pulling it off.
6. Clean the wheel contact surfaces. There may be dust and particles on the areas where the spare tire fits onto the car.
7. Put the spare tire on the car. Push it on straight with the lug nuts holes aligned until it cannot go any further.
8. Put the lug nuts on the spare tire and screw them in loosely just so they are attached and the spare tire stays on the car.
9. Lower the Mercedes to the ground by cranking the jack counter-clockwise and remove the jack from underneath the car.
10. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Tighten the top lug to 50 percent tightness then tighten the opposite lug nut to 50 percent and continue to tighten all lug nuts like you are drawing a star. Repeat again and tighten the lugs completely. It is important to tighten the lugs in a star pattern so that the tire is secured straight.

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How to Change the Grills on a BMW

1. Open the hood of the car.
2. Inspect the area around the grills. On an older model like the 1988 535is, the kidney grills and side grills are held in place with screws.
3. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws that run along the upper edge of the grills.
4. Pull the grills up and out.
5. On new models like the new 135i, you may have to remove several torx bit screws (shaped liked a star) that hold a piece of bumper trim in the front, upper portion of the engine bay, above the grill.
6. Pull the trim forward enough so that you can look down behind the grills. Locate the clips that hold the grills in place, which will be on the inside portion of the grills.
7. Using a long tool such as a screwdriver, insert it through the grill until you can press on the clips that hold the grill.
8. Pull the grill out gently while pressing on the upper clips.
9. Once the upper clips are loosened and the grill is moving a little at the top, move to the lower clips.
10. Insert the screwdriver and press gently on the clips. Pull the grill out. Repeat for the other grill.
11. Remove the side grills in between the headlights and the kidney grills by unscrewing the screws that hold the side grills on. Some models, like the 135, do not have side grills.
12. Install the new grills in the reverse of removal. Replace the side grills first if they were removed, then gently press in the new kidney grills, pressing gently until they snap into place. On older models, the grill will simply screw back on.

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How to Find Mercedes Benz Engine Identification Numbers

1. Unlock the hood by pulling the lever located between the driver's side door and the steering wheel.
2. Open the hood and locate the radiator behind the vehicle's grill.
3. Look on top of the radiator for a metal data plate. The data plate lists the chassis number and the engine number. The engine number will be preceded by the word "Motor-Nr."

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How to Fix Cold Start Problems on an Audi TT

1. Jump start your Audi TT by opening the engine compartment and connecting the battery to the battery of another car that is running. The red jumper cable will connect to the positive terminals on each battery, which will be indicated by a '+' sign, while the other jump cable, most commonly black, will be connected to the negative terminals on each battery. Turn your TT's ignition to the accessories position while it is connected to the running vehicle and allow the battery to gain a charge for a few minutes before attempting to start your TT.
2. Check the ignition coils of your Audi TT by opening the hood and removing the plastic engine cover. There is one ignition coil for each cylinder of your engine and they all sit in a row, above each engine cylinder. Turn on your TT's engine and pull each ignition coil one by one before re-inserting it over the spark plug again. If there is no clicking, or spark, coming from the bottom of the ignition coil, then it will need to be replaced. Your engine has enough trouble starting in extreme cold and a faulty ignition coil can only exacerbate the problem. By replacing the ignition coil, you can resolve some cold start issues.
3. Inspect the spark plugs underneath each of the ignition coils. If there is a black and gray, soot-like substance that coats the spark plug, the spark plugs could be causing your issues. Replacing faulty spark plugs can help resolve cylinder misfires often encountered during cold starts of your Audi TT's engine.
4. Bring your Audi TT to a licensed repair shop or dealership and have them test the fluidity of the fuel injectors. The fuel injectors are responsible for delivering the appropriate amount of fuel to be combusted by each engine cylinder. Over time, the injectors can become dirty and clogged, which can impact their ability to evenly distribute fuel to all of your TT's cylinders. Cleaning or replacing dirty or clogged injectors can resolve cold start issues that may be caused by an inadequate amount of fuel being delivered to engine.

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How to Install an AWE S

Audi Quattro 2002 Models
1. Let your engine is cool and remove the key from your ignition. Open your hood and locate the airbox, which is on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. Pull the trapezoidal trim cover of your airbox upward to remove it.
2. Pull the black, rectangular air box ducting pipe upward and toward you to remove it. Locate the connection harness of your mass air flow (MAF) sensor at the side of the airbox pipe and press the sensor plug in to disconnect the sensor. Locate the two ignition module connectors at the top of the airbox and press the plugs in to disconnect them.
3. Cut the zip-tie that holds the wires on the top of your airbox together and discard it. Use a thin screwdriver to pop open the plastic clips that hold the hoses to the top of the airbox.
4. Loosen the screw of the clamp that holds the air intake tube to the mass air flow on one end and use a pair of pliers to loosen the clamp on the end nearest the manifold. Remove the air intake tube and be careful not to lose or damage the rubber gaskets on either end of the tube.
5. Unhook the four metal clips around the perimeter of the airbox with your flat screwdriver. Pull the upper half of the airbox away from the lower half, while being careful not to pull on any wires or hoses. Remove and discard the existing air filter.
6. Place the top half of the airbox upside-down on a flat surface so that the cylindrical end faces you. Grasp and pull the clips at the base of the cylinder, which is the MAF sensor, and remove the sensor by pulling it away from the airbox.
7. Insert the tube of your S-Flo kit into the center of the cylinder base so that the non-flanged end goes in first. Center it so that there is sufficient room to install the S-Flo conical air filter over it. Do not let the O-ring of the S-Flo tube slip below the flange on the lip of the tube.
8. Seat the MAF sensor around the S-Flo tube and into the cylinder base of the airbox. Apply a bit of soapy water to the outside flange of the sensor if you have difficulty inserting it. Close the metal clips around the catches on the sides of the sensor once you have securely re-installed the sensor.
9. Slide the stem at the bottom of the S-Flo conical air filter onto the portion of the S-Flo tube that protrudes from the inside of the top of the airbox. Secure it to the tube with the silicon coupler provided in your S-Flo kit. Pull the hose clamps on the filter tight but not overly tight and fasten them by turning each clamp screw clockwise (away from you) with your screwdriver.
10. Position the top of the airbox onto the bottom so that the filter points inward. Disregard any slight contact between the filter and the edges of the box housing.
11. Reassemble the airbox and reconnect all tubes and pipes. Use the provided tie-down to re-tie your ignition wires to the airbox. Plug your manifold and ignition cables back into their harnesses. Replace the airbox trim cover and close your hood. You can now drive your Audi Quattro as you usually do.
Installation for 2008 to 2010 Models
12. Let the engine cool and remove the key from the ignition before you open the hood of your Audi.
13. Pull the connector at the end of the thin breather hose that is located near your throttle body and connected to your intake hose off to remove the breather hose. Unclip the two rubber line connectors leading to the intake hose.
14. Loosen the clamp screws on the clamps at each end of the intake hose with a flat screwdriver. Remove the intake hose.
15. Use a Torx T25 screwdriver to loosen all screws holding the airbox lid to the airbox. Pull the lid off the airbox and place it upside-down on a flat surface so that the round core of the air filter assembly faces you.
16. Press down on the metal clip located below the plastic hose collar and release the collar from the airbox lid. Use a Torx T15 screwdriver to remove both of the screws that hold the air filter element onto the lid. Set the screws aside. Pull off the O-ring located beneath the air filter element and discard it along with the filter element.
17. Line up the rubber protrusions on the sides of the S-Flo filter with the grooves on the inside of the airbox lid and slide the filter into the lid. Clip the two metal clips onto the new filter and fasten it to the lip of the lid with the two supplied M4 bolts. Tighten the bolts with a 3 mm hex (Allen) key wrench.
18. Line up the plastic hose collar mounting holes with the screw holes in the lid. Fasten the hose collar back to the lid with the screws you removed in Step 5. Tighten the screws with a Torx T15 screwdriver.
19. Thread one of the cable ties supplied with your S-Flo kit into the smaller of the two holes on the EVAP bracket included in the kit.
20. Affix the other end of the EVAP bracket to the strut tower stud (protruding bolt) which is located on the front right of your hood frame. For A5 3.2L V6 engines, remove the 13-mm nut that holds the strut tower to the hood and make sure that the bracket does not touch any plastic hose. Fasten either the provided M8 nut and washer for the B8 S4/S5 3.0 T kit or the original 13 mm nut over the bracket and tighten it with a 13 mm wrench.
21. Secure the EVAP hose to the bracket with the cable tie as necessary and thread the pointed end of the tie through the fastener end before pulling the tie tight to secure the hose. Cut off the excess tie material.
22. Thread the remaining cable tie through the hole in the short protrusion of the fuel line bracket that is included in your S-Flo kit. Attach the longer protrusion of the bracket to the airbox lid with the airbox lid bolt and fasten the bolt. Secure the fuel line to the bracket with the tie, thread the pointed end of the tie through the fastener end and pull it tightly. Cut away excess tie material.
23. Install the AWE silicone intake hose that is provided with the S-Flo kit in place of the factory-supplied intake hose that you removed in Step 3 and fasten it with the clamps provided on each end. Reinstall the breather hose that you removed in Step 2 onto the plastic hose barb near the throttle.
24. Close your hood. You are now ready to drive your car as usual.

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How to Replace Coil Springs

1. Jack the car up until the stock spring is compressed and install the coil spring compressor by sliding the hooked section of the tool onto the top and bottom part of the spring, effectively holding the compressed spring in place. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off of the wheel studs. Use the socket set to remove the nut from the top of the strut tower, which is the cylindrical rod extending up through the coil spring itself.
2. Use the ball joint tool to remove the ball joint and control arm from the lower strut and pull the strut tower out from the engine compartment. Slide the spring off of the strut tower.
3. Install the new coil spring on the strut tower and slide the tower back into place in the engine compartment. Tighten down the bolt on top of the tower and remount the ball joint. Mount the wheel and lower the car.

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How to Perform a Power Steering Flush

1. Consult your owner's manual for the recommended type of power steering fluid.
2. Park the car on a level surface, engage the hand brake and turn off the engine.
3. Open the hood of the car.
4. Look for the steering box. The steering box is obvious in some vehicles because it is connected to the steering rods that turn the wheels. Consult your owner's manual if you cannot locate the steering box.
5. Place the oil pan or similar container directly under the steering box.
6. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nuts that secure the pipes that go into the steering box.
7. Angle the pipes into the oil pan.
8. Start the engine. Turn the steering wheel from side to side to help force the power steering fluid out of the system.
9. Add new power steering fluid to the power steering reserve tank while continuing to work the steering wheel from side to side. The reserve tank is located above the steering box and is clearly marked in most vehicles. Consult your owner's manual for the exact location on your vehicle.
10. Add new fluid to the tank until new fluid begins to flow into the oil pan, indicating the system has been flushed properly.
11. Turn off the engine.
12. Reattach the pipes to the steering box using the wrench and the flare nuts.
13. Fill the power steering reserve tank to the point indicated by the 'Full Hot Level' mark on the reserve cap's dipstick.
14. Turn the steering wheel from side to side to force out any large air bubbles. Secure the reserve tank cap in place to complete the procedure.

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How to Check Differential Fluid Levels

1. Locate the differential housing. It is the lump on the axle in between the two tires, known as the 'pumpkin.' If your vehicle has a differential cover, it will have a fill hole.
2. Locate the fill hole. On some models, it will be a square nut head sticking about 1/2 inch out of the cover itself, and on other models it will be an allen-style nut, recessed inside the cover.
3. Remove this plug, either using a crescent wrench or allen key, whichever your application requires.
4. Put your finger in the hole and feel for fluid. If filled correctly, the fluid should be almost to the bottom of the fill hole when on level ground. If you have to reach very far in, add some more.
5. Reinstall fill plug, but don't over tighten. They are designed with a lot of threads so the fluid won't leak, so there is no need to muscle these on. Just make it nice and snug.

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How to Remove the Destination NAV in an Audi

1. Press the 'NAV' button on the MMI console to open up the navigation function on your Audi.
2. Use the control knob to scroll to and highlight 'Cancel Route Guidance.'
3. Press down on the control knob to select 'Cancel Route Guidance.' The destination will be removed from the navigation system and you will no longer receive direction prompts from the MMI system.

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How to Troubleshoot the A/C in a Mercedes E320

1. Check to see that the AC controls are operating correctly. Start the engine and turn on the fan and air conditioner. If the controls are difficult to move or loose, have them replaced. If the fan does not switch on, a fuse might have blown or the fan motor could have blown. Replace the fan.
2. Inspect the fuse box for blown fuses. The fuse box in a Mercedes E320 is on the end of the driver's side dashboard. Open the door to access the panel. Consult the diagram on the inside of the fuse box cover to identify the fuse that corresponds to the AC system. If the fuse is damaged, replace it with another of the same amperage rating.
3. Ensure that the valve control is operating correctly by checking the two AC/heater hoses under the hood while the engine is running. The hoses protrude from the firewall. The firewall divides the engine and passenger compartments.The hoses are similar to the thickness of a garden hose. Place your hand on the two hoses. Both should be warm to the touch. However, one should be noticeably cooler than the other. If not, this could mean that the valve control needs to be replaced. Have a qualified mechanic investigate further.
4. Turn up the air conditioner to its highest setting with the engine running. Check under the hood to see whether the magnetic clutch connected to the AC compressor engages. If you do not see or hear the clutch turn over, the system might be low on refrigerant. Have a mechanic refill the system. An excessively noisy compressor could mean that it is close to failing.
5. Check all the AC hoses for leaks. If you notice a green, oily residue on them, they could be damaged and may need to be replaced.
6. Use the AC compression test gauge (with the engine off) to check for sufficient pressure in the AC system. The test gauge has red and blue hoses attached to red and blue monitors to calculate the pressure. Remove the black caps from the service ports on the E320's AC unit. Screw the blue hose to the low-side service port and the red hose to the high-side port. Check the pressure readings on the monitors. If the reading is not between 50 psi and 80 psi, have a qualified mechanic investigate further as this could mean there is a leak in the system.

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