How to Change the Brake Fluid in a BMW Z4

1. Loosen the lug nuts for the wheels. Lift the car with the floor jack and lower it securely onto jack stands. Remove the wheels and set them aside.
2. Open the hood and remove the lid to the brake fluid reservoir. Use the syringe or similar tool to remove the brake fluid from the reservoir and transfer it to a waste container. Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid, filling it past the full mark.
3. Locate the bleeder valve on the right rear caliper, located on the upper, outside of the caliper. Remove the rubber cap so that you can access the nut that loosens the valve. Attach the tube for the bleeder kit to the bleed valve on one end and into a clear plastic container with a small amount of brake fluid in it. Loosen the bleeder valve a quarter-turn with a line wrench.
4. Depress the brake pedal from behind the wheel until you see that the new brake fluid coming out of the caliper and into the container. This may take 15 pumps or more. Check the fluid that is coming out of the caliper periodically and ensure that the brake fluid reservoir is still topped up so that air does not enter the brake system.
5. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tube and then reinstall the rubber cap on the bleeder valve. Repeat this process for the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and then the left front wheel until all four corners of the car have been bled. Make sure the reservoir stays full of brake fluid during the procedure so that no air is allowed to enter the brake system. Replace the cap for the brake fluid reservoir.
6. Reinstall the wheels. Lower the car off of the jack stands and tighten the lug nuts for the wheels in a criss-cross pattern.

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How to Reduce Oil Level Via Dipstick

1. Turn on the vehicle. Allow the vehicle to run for four to five minutes. Turn off the vehicle.
2. Open the vehicle hood. Insert the hood prop.
3. Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube. Wipe oil from the dipstick with a rag.
4. Pinch the valve -- located on the line of a manual oil extractor -- between your thumb and index finger. Pump the extractor handle fifty times to build pressure in the extractor canister.
5. Slide the end of the extractor hose into the dipstick tube until you feel the hose hit the bottom of the oil pan. Push on the pinch valve to pull oil from the oil pan. Stop the flow of oil by pinching the valve closed.
6. Pull the extractor hose from the dipstick tube. Wipe oil from the hose with a rag. Open the pinch valve when the extractor is clear of the dipstick tube.
7. Insert the dipstick into the dipstick tube. Pull the dipstick out of the tube to check the engine oil level. Remove additional oil if the level remains high.

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How to Replace a Mercedes#039; Side

1. Remove the screws holding the front frame over the front of the mirror glass housing using a screwdriver. Set the screws aside. Carefully pull the mirror frame away from the rest of the mirror housing.
2. Put on thick work gloves to protect your fingers. Remove any broken shards of mirror, and throw them away.
3. Heat the surface of the glass with a heat gun to loosen the glue holding the remainder of the mirror in place. Pry the glass away from the mirror housing with a putty knife.
4. Apply adhesive remover to the adhesive still present in the mirror housing. Allow the adhesive to sit for about three minutes. This will eat away the remaining glue and make it easy to remove. Wipe the adhesive away with a soft cloth.
5. Apply a line of silicone adhesive to the mirror housing frame surrounding the interior of the mirror housing. Press the replacement glass inside the frame. Hold the glass against the frame with your hands.
6. Tape the mirror in place with electrical tape. Wrap the tape around the entire mirror housing several times for stability.
7. Replace the exterior frame over the mirror glass. Screw the frame into place. Leave the tape around the mirror housing for 24 hours while the glue dries completely. Remove the tape after 24 hours. If necessary, unscrew the top mirror frame to remove all tape pieces.

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How to Bleed a Radiator on a 2003 BMW 325i

1. Park your car on level ground and allow its engine to cool for at least three to five hours.
2. Jack the car up and place it on axle stands.
3. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
4. Remove the cap from the top of the radiator.
5. Place the drain pan underneath the blue plastic drain plug, found at the bottom of the radiator. Remove the plug with a wrench or spanner.
6. Drain the fluid until it stops. If it contains any debris or metal flakes, you will need a professional to inspect your radiator.
7. Drain the coolant into a bottle, seal it, and dispose of it at an appropriate recycling facility.
8. Inspect the radiator cap for dry rot or wear and tear. Replace it with a new cap if necessary.
9. Flush cold water through the radiator.
10. Fill the radiator with water to help remove the remaining antifreeze.
11. Replace the radiator cap and turn on the engine for five minutes.
12. Turn off the engine and allow it to cool.
13. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until the water is clear.
14. Pour the flushing agent into your radiator. Repeat steps 11 and 12, and then drain the flushing agent.
15. Replace the plug once all of the coolant is emptied out of the radiator. Tighten to 2 to 3 Nm (18 to 27 inch pounds).
16. Remove the small plastic bleed screw to the right of the radiator cap. Using a large funnel in the expansion tank, slowly fill the car with new liquid--50 percent coolant, 50 percent distilled water. Restart the car engine for five minutes to open the thermostat.
17. Add more antifreeze or coolant until the radiator is full. Screw the cap back on the radiator.
18. Bleed the air out of the expansion tank on the side of the radiator. Otherwise you will have a separate, external expansion tank which is self-bleeding. With the bleed screw removed, fill the expansion tank until fluid begins coming out of the bleed screw.
19. Run the engine until it reaches its operating temperature. Turn off the engine and let it cool down. Top up the coolant in the expansion tank to the appropriate level, if necessary.

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How to Transfer a Lease on a Mercedes GLK 350

1. Call MBFS to ensure you lease is eligible for transfer at 800-654-6222 (as of December 2010). If it is, ask if any fees exist for the lease transfer in your state.
2. Talk with the potential transferee about money down, if you require any. Because you will lose your security deposit, you can have the transferee pay you the amount you'll lose. Also, you must decide who will pay the transfer fee if one exists in your state.
3. Go to the MBFS website and log in to your account, or create an account if you haven't already. Go to the 'Account' section and click on the 'Lease Transfer' link. Fill out all required areas. You must have the intended transferee's email address, name, mailing address and phone number to submit the application offer and agree to the terms and conditions.
4. Wait during the transferee's application process. The person you are transferring to must submit her application and, upon approval, she must pay taxes, follow state motor vehicle requirments and provide proof of insurance for the vehicle to MBFS.
5. Call MBFS if you would like to know the status of the application. You can also contact the transferee during the process to find out where he is in the process. An MBFS representative will contact you upon the approval and transfer, at which time you can request payment for any money due from the person you are transferring to.
6. Send all of your original lease paperwork to MBFS. The bank representative will tell you where to mail your documents. Once MBFS receives all paperwork from you and the transferee, a representative will contact you after the paperwork has been processed and the lease is officially transferred.
7. Take your plates off of the GLK 350 and clean it out completely. Return your plates to a motor vehicle office promptly and remove the car from your insurance policy.

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How to Change the Brakes on a 320CLK

Remove Worn Brakes
1. Loosen the bolts or lung nuts on the Mercedes 320 CLK wheels with a socket.
2. Raise the Mercedes 320 CLK coupe with a hydraulic pump or floor jack. Support the coupe with jack stands.
3. Remove the wheel and tire off the Mercedes.
4. Remove the old brake pads and retaining pins using a socket and ratchet.
5. Clean the brake caliper where the brakes usually sit. Inspect the brake caliper and dust cap for damage. Replace parts that have leaks or imperfections.
6. Inspect the disc brakes for deterioration.
7. Review the master cylinder reservoir to check the level of brake fluid. Siphon the fluid until the reservoir is at half capacity.
8. Use a c-clamp to apply pressure on the brake caliper.
Install New Brakes
9. Place the dust cap, if it appears worn. Resurface or replace the rotor, if its damaged. Replace the rubber seal near the guide if worn.
10. Put the new brake pads, retaining springs and retaining pins on the brake caliper.
11. Refill the brake fluid levels in the master cylinder reservoir.
12. Pump the brake pedals several times to accurately set the brake pads.
13. Put the wheels and tires back on the 320 CLK.
14. Lower the Mercedes 320 CLK back to the ground. Ensure the brake pedal feels firm before driving the car.

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How to Replace CV Joints

1. Break the lug nuts loose on the wheel by turning them a quarter turn counterclockwise.
2. Put the emergency brake on and raise the vehicle onto jack stands. Put the floor jack under the front jack point and jack up on the vehicle. Place a jack stand under each of the front pinch welds and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
3. Finish removing the lug nuts and pull the wheels off.
4. Take the spindle nut off. Use an impact wrench with a spindle nut socket attachment for this.
5. Remove the top and bottom caliper mounting bolts.
6. Secure the caliper to the coil springs above the brake assembly.
7. Remove the brake rotor.
8. Pull the cotter pin out of the shaft bolt using pliers.
9. Remove the driveshaft nut. Use an impact wrench for this, as the nut is on too tight to remove with hand tools. Depending on your vehicle, you may or may not need a special tool for this.
10. Loosen and remove the tie rod bolt with the socket wrench.
11. Remove the sway bar bolt and move the sway bar assembly out of the way.
12. Remove the tie rod bolt with a socket wrench, and move the steering knuckle and hub out of the way.
13. Pull the CV shaft out of the transmission or transaxle.
14. Install the new axle. Installation is the reverse of removal.

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How to Change the Oil in a Mercedes 1998 C280

1. Park the Mercedes C280 on a level surface and allow the engine to cool for at least half an hour. This gives the oil time to drain into the oil pan.
2. Locate the oil pan on the beneath your engine block. It is a large rectangular box covered by a plastic panel. Use the socket wrench to unbolt the panel and expose the oil drain plug --- a hex bolt towards the front of the oil pan.
3. Lay out the plastic tarp beneath the oil pan. Oil can be a disastrous water pollutant, and the tarp is an important means of preventing oil from escaping into your local water system. (See Reference 1) Position the metal catch pan on the tarp beneath the plug on the oil pan. Wear gloves to shield your hands and keep them clean.
4. Remove the oil filler cap, located on the top right-hand side of the C280's engine block. Unscrew the oil pan plug with a socket wrench, being careful not to splash hot oil on yourself. Let the oil drain from the oil pan into the catch pan.
5. Replace the oil pan plug, but do not over-torque the hex bolt.
6. Pour clean oil into to oil filler opening. According to Mercedes, your 1998 C280 should take approximately six or eight quarts of new oil, depending on the size of your engine. (See Reference 2) As you fill the oil pan check the level of the oil using your dipstick to ensure that you do not overfill; your oil level should read between the two small holes at the bottom of the dipstick.
7. Replace filler cap and oil dipstick. Close the car's hood.
8.
Improperly disposed of motor oil often ends up polluting wetlands and other natural resources.
Dispose of used oil by funneling it into the containers your new oil came in. Do this over the tarp to contain any spills. Never get rid of used motor oil by throwing it in your trash or dumping it down the drain. Instead, bring the waste oil to your local recycling center or hazardous waste disposal site. (See Reference 1)

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How to Find the Build Date for Your Car

1. Locate your automobile's vehicle identification number by standing outside the driver-side windshield and looking through the lower corner of the windshield on the dashboard. You'll find the 17-character VIN on a little tin plate riveted to the dashboard.
2. Read the tenth character.
3. Translate alphabetical characters into model year as follows.
A-1980
B-1981
C-1982
4. Skip I, O, Q, U and Z since the VIN system doesn't use them for model year. They look too much like other letters or numbers.
5. Start matching numbers to model years starting with 2001. In other words, Y refers to 2000, 1 refers to 2001 and 2 refers to 2002.
6. Match up letters to years again beginning with 2010. Therefore 9 refers to 2009, A refers to 2010 and B refers to 2011.

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How to Change Front Brakes on an 1998 Audi A6

1. Open the brake master cylinder reservoir's cap, and siphon out about half of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, using a clean turkey baster. Transfer this fluid to a small container.
2. Loosen, but don't remove, the front lug bolts. Raise the front of the A6, using a floor jack, and position jack stands under the vehicle's subframe. Lower the Audi onto the jack stands. Remove the lug bolts, and pull the front wheels off the Audi.
3. Pry the protective rubber caps off the caliper pins, using a flat-head screwdriver. Note the position of the outer brake pad retaining spring -- the thin wire spring -- securing the outer brake pad. Pry the retaining spring from the caliper, using a flat-head screwdriver.
4. Find the brake pad sensor wire -- the thin wire running from the inner brake pad. Trace the wire upward until you locate where its wiring harness connects to the Audi's wiring harness. Press the locking button on the Audi's wiring harness and unplug the brake pad's wiring harness from the Audi's wiring harness.
5. Remove the two caliper pins using a ratchet and a hex-bit socket. Pull the caliper up and off the caliper bracket, and hang it from a nearby suspension component, using a bungee strap. Pull the outer brake pad from the caliper bracket.
6. Position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper so the fixed part contacts the rear of the caliper and the screw part contacts the old inner pad. Tighten the C-clamp until it stops moving. Remove the C-clamp from the caliper. Insert the blade of a flat-head screwdriver under the inner brake pad and pry it upward slightly, then pull it from the caliper -- notice metal 'fingers' on the rear of the pad insert into the caliper piston.
7. Loosen the two caliper bracket-retaining bolts, and pull the caliper bracket off the steering knuckle. Grab the brake rotor and pull it off the front hub. If the rotor does not pull off easily, lightly tap the rear of it with a rubber mallet to free it.
8. Inspect the brake rotor for any defects, including: cracks, hot spots, grind marks or deep grooves. Replace the rotor with a new one if defects are present. Set the rotor back on the hub, lining up the lug bolt holes on the rotor with those on the hub.
9. Set the caliper bracket back on the steering knuckle, and hand-thread the caliper bracket-retaining bolts. Tighten the caliper bracket-retaining bolts to 96 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.
10. Slide a new outer brake pad into the caliper bracket. Line up the fingers on the rear of the new inner brake pad up with the cavity in the caliper piston. Press the pad onto the caliper piston until the fingers are inserted fully into the cavity.
11. Remove the brake caliper from the bungee strap, and set it on the caliper bracket. Hand-tighten the caliper pins, then torque them to 18 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and hex-bit socket.
12. Slide the outer brake pad-retaining spring back into its position. Compress the retaining springs hooks with your fingers and insert the hooks into the two holes in the caliper. Release the hooks to lock the spring in place. Plug the brake pad sensor wiring harness into the A6's wiring harness.
13. Repeat Steps 3 through 12 to replace the pads on the other side of the A6.
14. Reinstall the front wheels onto the A6's front hubs, and hand-tighten the lug bolts. Raise the Audi off the jack stands, using a floor jack, and remove the jack stands. Lower the Audi to the ground and tighten the lug bolts -- in a crisscrossing pattern -- to 90 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.
15. Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and add DOT 4 brake fluid until the level reaches the 'Max' line on the reservoir.

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