How to Check the Transmission Fluid on a 1992 BMW 525i

1. Drive the 1992 BMW 525i around for about 10 minutes to heat the transmission fluid up. To be able to get an accurate transmission fluid reading, the transmission fluid has to be hot.
2. Park the 1992 BMW 525i and leave the engine running. Set the emergency brake and open the hood.
3. Locate the transmission dipstick on the back side of the passenger side of the engine. The transmission dipstick will have a small yellow handle.
4. Pull the transmission dipstick out and wipe the fluid off with a clean rag. Slide the transmission dipstick back in the tube and pull it out again. The transmission-fluid level should be between the two check lines on the dipstick. The bottom check line is the "Low" fluid line and the top check line is the "Maximum" fluid level. The transmission fluid must be between the two lines to be full.
5. Slide the dipstick back in the tube and close the hood. Turn the engine off.

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How to Install a Thermostat in a BMW

1. Place a drain pan underneath the radiator drain plug of your BMW and then take the cap off of the radiator. Turn the radiator drain plug with a pair of pliers and allow the coolant to drain out completely. Once the radiator is completely drained, turn the drain plug and shut off the coolant drain. Use an old coolant container and pour the discarded coolant into the container. Use a marker to label the old container as 'used' coolant.
2. Find the engine coolant plug at the back of the BMW engine, near the oil drain plug. Place the drain pan under this plug and use a metric socket wrench to undo the plug and allow the coolant to drain out of the motor. When the coolant has completely drained, tighten the drain plug and remove the drain pan. Pour the discarded coolant into your used coolant container.
3. Identify the alternator cooling duct, located at the front of the engine running from the alternator to the radiator. This tube will slide off without any fasteners or clips. Remove the tube and set it off to the side. Locate the six screws that were under the tube, holding a shroud in place.
4. Undo the six screws holding the shroud with a metric socket wrench. Locate the two hose clamps that are attached to the thermostat housing and loosen them using a screwdriver. Remove the hoses and locate the cooling fan under the hoses, and remove the bolts to the fan with a metric socket wrench. Hold the fan while you are removing the bolts to keep it from falling. When the bolts are loose, set the cooling fan aside.
5. Unfasten the bolts that are holding the thermostat housing in place with a metric socket wrench and remove the housing. Examine the thermostat and take note of the position of the arrow on the thermostat. Take the thermostat out of the housing and use a piece of emery cloth to clean the area around the face of the housing to clean off any remaining gasket material or debris.
6. Place a bead of gasket seal around the face of the thermostat housing and position the new thermostat in the housing with the arrow pointed in the same direction as the one you removed. Attach the thermostat housing with bolts and reattach the cooling fan. Place the hoses back over the thermostat housing and tighten the clamps with a screwdriver.
7. Position the shroud cover over the cooling fan and secure with screws and a socket wrench. Slide the alternator cooling duct tube back into place and refill the radiator with coolant. Once the radiator is full, put the cap back on the radiator and start the BMW motor. Let the motor warm up for about five minutes to verify that the thermostat is working properly and then turn off the engine.
8. Discard the used coolant by taking it to the local recycling center or automotive recycling center.

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The Mercedes 300E Won#039;t Start

1. Open the hood your 300E and look for the battery. This is on the passenger side of the 300E's engine.
2. Look over the connection terminals for any corrosion.
3. Remove the battery terminals with a socket wrench.
4. Use a wire brush and soda to remove the corrosion from the battery terminals. Scrub the terminals with the wire brush until the corrosion comes off.
5. Jump start the 300E with jumper cables and another car.
6. Leave the 300E running for about 5 minutes and then turn it off.
7. Try to restart the car. If the car does not restart, replace the battery.
8. Make sure you have enough fuel in the car to start it. Add 1 gallon of fuel and try to restart the car in the event that your gas gauge is not working properly.

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How to Change an Oil Pan on an Audi A4

1. Raise the front of the Audi with the floor jack and place it securely on jack stands. You can remove the wheels as well if you would like some extra room.
2. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the oil into a suitable container. Remove all of the 10mm bolts on the perimeter of the oil pan that hold it on. Once the bolts are removed, the pan will come down and rest on the subframe.
3. Remove the 13mm bolts that hold the front engine mount in place. Remove the engine mount and set it aside, noting the orientation of the spacers and washers.
4. Remove the two 17mm nuts on the bottom of the side engine mounts. Jack up the engine about 4 inches by placing the jack under the small ear at the front of the engine block. Place a piece of wood between the engine and the jack. Very carefully jack the engine up a few inches, keeping an eye on the coolant hoses to avoid pulling on them.
5. Remove the two 17mm bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis. The subframe should come down about 4 inches. The oil pan can now be removed from the engine. Be extremely careful at this point since nothing but the jack is holding the motor in place and preventing it from falling from the car.
6. Apply a small layer of gasket sealant to the new oil pan. Place the new gasket in place. Apply a layer of sealant to the bottom of the engine block.
7. Install the oil pan onto the engine and tighten all of the bolts that hold it on. Reattach the subframe with the two 17mm bolts. You may need to use a second floor jack to lift the subframe up to the attachment points.
8. Lower the jack that is holding the engine up until you can realign the side engine mounts of the motor with the subframe. Install the bolts that fasten the motor mounts in place. Reinstall the front motor mount with the two bolts. Lower the Audi from the jack stands. Fill the motor with oil, start the motor and check for oil leaks.

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How to Repair a 1990 BMW 535I Radiator

1. Crank the BMW's engine, and allow it to warm so the radiator can move coolant through the cooling system and engine. Observe the radiator's surface area, including the tubes, fins and hose connectors for spewing, seeping or weeping coolant. Observe the area under the BMW for coolant on the ground, which might provide a clue as to the location of the leak. Finally, turn off the vehicle and clean the radiator's surface of any leaves, dirt or other debris that might be obscuring a leak. Rocks and other debris flying at the radiator from the road do more damage to a BMW 535i plastic radiator than a brass radiator.
2. Unscrew metal rings holding a ripped or torn radiator hose in place after the engine has cooled off. Pull the hose away from the connectors, and brush away any debris. Place the new hose on the connector openings, and replace the metal rings, tightening properly.
3. Open the radiator by removing the radiator cap, and pour in a bottle or can of radiator sealant. Radiator sealant comes in both pellet and powder form, and both forms work the same way --- by swelling into leaks to fill them. Drive the BMW for 30 minutes to allow the sealant to circulate through the radiator.
4. Stop the engine, and allow it to cool. Drain all of the coolant from the radiator, and remove it from the BMW. Place the air-free plastic welder over the leak area until it is heated all the way through. Place the air-free welder over the plastic welding rod to melt it into the leak until it begins to take on the color of the radiator. Allow the weld job to cool.
5. Stop the engine, and allow the BMW to cool. Open the radiator plug, drain the coolant, and take the radiator out of the vehicle. Spray water or air to clean any remaining debris from surface and hose connectors. Sand the area of the leak to prep for welding. Heat the area to be repaired with an air-free plastic welder. For surface holes, fill with epoxy. For broken hose connectors or seam leaks, melt a plastic welding rod over the area, and press the broken surfaces together. Both methods require time to set before reinstalling the radiator and refilling the system.

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How to Troubleshoot a BMW 325 Series

1. Use the right type of fuel. Using the wrong type of gas can damage the vehicle's catalytic converters or cause a 'knocking' sound in the engine. The 2006 BMW 325i owner's manual reminds drivers to use unleaded fuel in their vehicles and recommends an octane of at least 91. Fuel with an octane of 93 is also permissible. Do not overfill the gas tank, which has a maximum capacity of 16.1 gallons.
2. Maximize your 325's fuel efficiency by keeping the tires properly inflated and aligned. If you've noticed a drop in your miles per tank, use a tire gauge to measure the pressure in all four tires. The recommended reading in pounds per square inch, or psi, will vary based on the type of tires installed on your 325i; page 110 of the owner's manual lists the exact tire pressure recommendations for a wide range of BMW tires.
3. Pop the hood of your 325 series to familiarize yourself with the different parts of your engine. Focus on these three locations: the expansion tank for coolant, located behind the front passenger-side headlight; the jump starter connection, located just below the windshield on the passenger side of the vehicle; and the filler neck for engine oil, located about halfway between your front bumper and the windshield on the passenger side of the vehicle.
4. Check your 325's engine oil level regularly. While the 325 series is equipped with an electronic sensor and alert system, which will display a message on your dashboard when the level is too low or too high, sometimes this sensor can malfunction. If the dashboard indicator says the level is too low, remove the cap on the filler neck and add a small amount of engine oil until the light turns off on its own (BMW recommends using high-performance synthetic oil). If the indicator says the level is too high or that the system is inactive, take the vehicle to a certified BMW repair shop to work on the system.
5. Add extra coolant to your vehicle when necessary. Coolant helps your vehicle operate at an acceptable temperature; if you notice the engine temperature gauge on your dashboard operating at 'high' at all times, you may be running low on coolant. Slowly loosen the coolant cap but don't remove it; this will give the tank time to release pressure gradually. Check to see that the coolant level is below the minimum and maximum level on the dip stick; if it is too low, add enough coolant so that it is properly filled. Even though coolant is made up partly of water, which can evaporate, you may still want to have your system checked for any leaks.
6. Recharge a dead battery by jump-starting it with the help of a second vehicle. Turn off both vehicles completely, then connect one positive (red) clamp on your jumper cables to the positive terminal on the assisting vehicle. Connect the second positive clamp to the 'positive' port located near your 325's passenger-side windshield. Next, connect one negative (black) clamp to the negative terminal on the assisting vehicle and the second negative clamp to the 'negative' port located on the far passenger-side under your 325's hood. Start the engine of the assisting car, giving it a few minutes to warm up before turning on the engine of your BMW. Take your 325 to a repair shop as soon as possible for a new battery.

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How to Repair the Wheel Bearings on a BMW 318I

1. Move the car jack underneath the BMW. Place the jack slightly off center so that the jack is slightly closer to the wheel which you will be replacing the bearings on. Raise the jack up to move the vehicle off the ground. Support the weight of the vehicle by placing jack stands along with the jack.
2. Use a lug wrench to remove the lug nuts fixed to the wheel. Take the wheel off the axle and place in a safe area. Ensure you do not damage the tire or rim.
3. Remove the mounting bolts from the brake caliper. Move a brake caliper away from its bracket and rest it on a wooden block. This will help prevent you from damaging the brake line. Remove the retaining bolt from the back of the rotor and remove it from the wheel assembly.
4. Take the mounting bolts from the wheel hub to allow you to gain access to the wheel bearings. Wriggle the hub free from the wheel assembly. If the hub is a little stuck use a wooden mallet to tap it free. Remove the inner and outer bearings from the hub.
5. Check the quality of the removed bearings. If any holes or grooves are present in the bearings you should discard them in the trash. Place the new bearings in to the hub. Tap them in place gently so that they are secure. Reattach the wheel assembly by following the removal steps in reverse.

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How to Replace the Drink Holder in a Mercedes Benz

Instructions for Console Cup Holders
1. Buy a new cup holder from your Mercedes-Benz dealership. Make sure you know the model number of your car so that you can buy the correct cup holder (VIN will also work).
2. Remove any part of the console covering the cup holder. You may be able to pry off the console, or if it is attached with screws, you will need to remove the screws on both sides and then remove the console.
3. Pry the cup holder out of the center console. It might be connected underneath with a tab. If so you may need to gently shake it back and forth while pulling to remove it or you may need to press down on the tab to release it using a screwdriver.
4. Replace the old cup holder with the new one, making sure to lock it in place if it is connected by any tabs or clips.
5. Put the center console back into place, making sure to clip it or screw it back into place.
Instructions for Dash Cup Holders
6. Buy a new cup holder from your Mercedes-Benz dealership. Make sure you know the model number of your car so that you can buy the correct cup holder (VIN will also work).
7. Remove the panel covering the cup holder by pulling it off with your fingers or very carefully with a screwdriver.
8. Gently pry the cup holder out of the dash using your fingers or by carefully using a screwdriver. Most cup holders will be connected with clips on both sides, so try to release one side first, then the other, then pull out the cup holder.
9. Replace the old cup holder with the new one, making sure to clip both sides into place.
10. Replace the panel covering the cup holder by clipping it back into place.

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How Do I Turn Up the Turbo in My Audi?

1. Determine the location for the boost controller inside your Audi. Many boost controllers come with a dashboard mount that allows you to place the boost controller near factory-installed control panels in your car.
2. Gain access to the turbocharger, which is situated underneath your engine at the head of the exhaust system, by removing the air box and hosing material that's attached to it and the engine's intake manifold. By removing these parts, you can easily manipulate the hoses and connections on the turbo as dictated by your boost controller's wiring instructions.
3. Locate the wastegate valve that is mounted at the top of the turbo assembly. This is a U-shaped device that controls how much air goes into and out of the turbocharger. Disconnect any hoses that attach the valve to the turbocharger.
4. Connect the  actuator of your boost controller to the wastegate frequency valve. The specific connection instructions vary between models of boost controllers and models of Audis that are equipped with turbos.
5. Connect the input hose for the boost controller to the turbo. You can use existing hosing that is attached to the inlet of the turbo to attach the input hose.
6. Run the wiring from the boost controller's actuator through a hole in your Audi's firewall, which the barrier that sits between the engine bay in your Audi and the interior. There are existing wiring holes in the firewall that you can use. Run the wiring to the boost control device that you've mounted on the interior of your car.
7. Reinstall the air box, intake tubing and any other parts that you might have removed to gain access to the turbo on your Audi, then close the hood.
8. Follow the wiring directions outlined in the instruction manual of your specific boost controller to connect the wire coming from the engine bay to the boost control device itself. You may need to strip insulation from the wires using the wire stripping tool. Use electrical tape to secure and insulate any new wire connections.

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How to Change the Brake Pads on an Audi A6

1. Use a tire iron or a socket and a ratchet to loosen the lug nuts that fasten the wheels to the vehicle. Raise the Audi with a floor jack and lower it onto jack stands. You can either lower all four corners of the car onto jack stands or do the front and then the rear. Finish removing the wheels and set them aside.
2. Spray brake cleaner on the brake components at the corner of the vehicle where you are working and wipe everything down, including the rotor, the caliper and any nearby components.
3. Remove the brake pad retaining clips with a pair of pliers. The clip is located on the side of the caliper opposite of the rotor. Pull out the ends of the clip and rotate it to remove it.
4. Disconnect the wire for the pad wear sensor from the brakes. Make a note of how the wire is held in place and also how it is routed for later reinstallation. To disconnect the wire itself from the brakes pry up the plastic arm on the outer side of the connector and then rotate it 90 degrees to free it, rocking it a little to help remove it.
5. Disconnect the wire connector itself by using a flat-head screwdriver to raise the tab on the connector up and then wiggle the wires on either side apart.
6. Remove the lid for the master cylinder reservoir, located in the engine bay. Use a syringe or a turkey baster to remove some of the brake fluid, transferring the fluid to a clean container for later reuse.
7. Place one side of a C-clamp onto the outer brake pad and the other side of the C-clamp on the outer part of the caliper. Tighten the clamp until the pad presses the caliper piston into the caliper. Repeat for the inner brake pad. The caliper should slide back and forth freely once the pistons are compressed. Remove the old brake pads by sliding them up and out of the caliper. Carefully pry the inner pad off the rotor with a flat-head screwdriver.
8. Install the new pads in the opposite order that the old ones were removed. Apply a layer of anti-squeal lubricant to the inner pad. Reinstall the pad wear sensor wire on the new pad and correctly route the wire. Reinstall the brake pad retaining clip in the opposite order of removal.
9. Repeat the above steps for the remaining corners of the vehicle. Top up the brake fluid reservoir with brake fluid and replace the lid. Pump the brake pedal until the brakes feel firm again.

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