Where Is the TCU Located in an Audi A8?


1. Shift the Audi's transmission into park and turn off the engine. Engage the parking brake and open the driver's side door.
2. Shine a work light above the pedal area, underneath the dashboard.
3. Locate the TCU. It is mounted on a steel carrier, just under the dashboard. Four steel bolts hold the TCU to its carrier. It is made from black plastic, approximately 4-inches wide, and 4-inches long.
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How to Change BMW Struts


1. Loosen the lug nuts for the wheels. Raise the BMW at all four corners with a floor jack. Lower it onto jack stands at all four corners and ensure that it is safely secured on the jacks. Remove the wheels and set them aside.
2. Disconnect any sensors or wires that go to the brake caliper. Disconnect the ABS sensor from the strut housing. Depending on the model, this may be held on with a small Allen bolt. Pull the ABS sensor out of the strut housing. Pull the brake lines off of the small brackets on the strut that holds the line in place.
3. Remove the set screw that holds the brake rotor to the hub. Pull the rotor and the caliper off as a unit. Support the rotor and brake assembly with a jack, or slide one of the wheels under the wheel arch so the rotor and caliper are supported without putting any weight on the brake line.
4. Disconnect the swaybar link where it attaches to the strut. There is usually a nut that holds the bushing to the bracket on the swaybar. To prevent the shaft for the bushing from turning, place an adjustable wrench on the flat side of the bushing shaft to hold it in place while the nut is removed.
5. Remove the bolts that hold the lower part of the strut to the strut carrier. These are accessed from below. Remove the three nuts that hold the upper part of the strut to the strut tower. These are accessed through the engine bay.
6. Remove the strut from the wheel arch. You may need to turn the steering wheel to move the suspension and allow enough clearance to remove the strut.
7. Place the strut on a flat surface. Place the spring compressor over the coil spring so that the hooks are securely fastened on it. Compress the springs evenly, ensuring that the spring compressor does not slide around the springs.
8. Remove the top center nut once the springs are compressed enough to release the tension on it. It may help to use an impact wrench to remove this nut. Remove the upper strut bearing and any associated bushings and washers. Pull the spring (still compressed) up over the strut. Do not decompress the spring.
9. Slide the new strut into the strut housing. Place the spring back over the strut. Replace the bushings, washers, strut bearing and the larger center nut. Tighten the nut to the proper specs. Carefully decompress the spring, ensuring that it seats properly in the upper and lower spring perches.
10. Reinstall the strut housing in the reverse order of removal. Reattach the upper nuts and the lower bolts. Refasten the swaybar link and the control arm if it was disconnected. Reattach all of the brake lines and wires that go to the brakes and the strut housing. Repeat the above steps for the other side.
11. Move to the rear. Disconnect the large single bolt that holds the lower shock assembly to the trailing arm. Remove the three upper nuts that fasten the upper part of the shock assembly to the shock tower. Depending on the model, these may be accessed through the trunk or from the interior behind the rear seats.
12. Remove the strut and spring assembly from the wheel arch. You may need to press down on the trailing arm to allow enough clearance for removal.
13. Place the shock and spring on a flat surface. Place the spring compressor over the coil spring so that the hooks are securely fastened on it. Compress the springs evenly, ensuring that the spring compressor does not slide around the springs.
14. Remove the top center nut once the springs are compressed enough to release the tension on it. It may help to use an impact wrench to remove this nut. Remove the upper shock bearing and any associated bushings and washers. Pull the spring (still compressed) up over the strut. Do not decompress the spring.
15. Slide the spring over the new shock. Replace the bushings, washers, strut bearing and the larger center nut. Tighten the nut to the proper specs. Carefully decompress the spring, ensuring that it seats properly in the upper and lower spring perches.
16. Reinstall the shock and spring assembly on the car. Hand tighten the lower bolt. Tighten the upper nuts and then the lower bolt to the proper torque. Repeat the above steps on the other side. Place the wheels back on the car and lower it to the ground.
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How to Improve the MPG of the Mercedes W114


1. Tune up the engine. The Mercedes W114 was manufactured in the days before computers, so any competent backyard mechanic will be able to do a basic tuneup of filter and spark plug changes. A more complex tuneup, like changing points, a condenser and a timing check, can be done by a qualified mechanic.
2. Change the oil and add a new filter. New oil reduces friction on engine parts, and less friction in any engine equates to better fuel economy.
3. Remove any excess weight. The lighter your W114 is, the less fuel it will take to make it go. Tools, salt and sandbags -- even sporting goods equipment like golf bags and camping supplies -- all add extra weight.
4. Inflate all the tires to the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure. All under-inflated tires will cause more friction going down the road, and unnecessary friction causes a reduction in fuel economy.
5. Remove bicycle and ski carriers, luggage racks and any other drag-inducing exterior attachment. Wind resistance from these items lowers fuel economy. In essence, the engine must work harder, and therefore burn more fuel, to compensate for the extra speed-reducing drag on the vehicle.
6. Follow fuel-reduction driving habits. Do not speed, don't idle excessively, use the cruise control if applicable for your particular model, and keep your transmission shifted into the highest gear possible to reduce engine rpms.
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How to Change BMW Wipers


1. Pull the wiper arms up extend them on their hinges.
2. Inspect the clip that holds the wiper blade on. This will vary depending on the year and model, but all windshield wiper clips are similar.
3. Remove the wiper by sliding the clip off of the arm of the wiper. You may have to rotate the wiper towards or away from the car to get it to release from the wiper arm.
4. Clean the windshield thoroughly while the arms are elevated away from the window.
5. Match the existing clip that holds the wiper on with the clips that come with the new wiper. Most wipers will have a variety of clips to choose from. Choose the identical clip or at least the most similar. Some wipers will be ready to install.
6. Install the clip onto the new wipers.
7. Slide the wiper's clip onto the wiper arm. You should here and feel and audible click as the clip engages. Ensure that the wiper blade is not binding or incorrectly installed and is facing the proper direction with the rubber surface facing the windshield.
8. Place the wiper arms back against the windshield.
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How to Start a TDI Diesel in the Winter


1. Keep your car in the garage overnight. Even the slightest temperature gain from keeping your diesel car in the garage will help your engine to start in the morning.
2. Visit gasoline stations that are used regularly, as the underground tanks of these stations will be recently filled with 'winter' diesel. More remote stations may still have 'summer' diesel, which thickens in cold weather. Filling your car with diesel from the right spots can help you start your car in cold weather.
3. Charge your battery when you feel a cold snap hitting. The battery performs less efficiently in cold weather, so it requires more power to run. Also, oil is thickened by the cold, causing the engine to require more power to crank, power that is provided by the battery.
4. Allow the glow plug to light. All diesel engines have a glow-plug system to heat the point of combustion in the engine. Give the glow plugs the necessary time to heat up before trying to start the engine. This is done by turning the key one notch to start the electronics, but not the engine. Start the engine when the glow light has been on for about 10 seconds.
5. Service your car before the winter comes. There are gaskets, temperature gauges and warning lights that are vital in detecting and warning you of problems relating to the cold weather. You need to ensure your car is in top condition heading into the winter.
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How Do I Dismantle the Front Door of an Audi Quattro?


1. Roll down the window on the door of which you are removing the door panel. This will allow you to lift the panel out of the track.
2. Locate the screw cover plates on the bottom and sides of the door panel. They are well hidden, but you'll notice them if you look closely. Remove these cover plates with a flat screwdriver and place them in the Audi's cup holder for safe keeping.
3. Pull the interior door handle to remove the screw cover plate. Remove the screw, and then wiggle the door handle trim plate until it comes loose. Pull it away from the door handle and set it aside.
4. Remove the door mounting bolts on the bottom side of the door's arm rest with the socket wrench.
5. Wedge the door panel removal tool between the door panel and the door itself. Use the tool to pry outward on the door. The door panel is attached using ribbed plastic fittings that will pull out as you work the tool around the door. Do not attempt to use a screwdriver to do this; you will damage the door and door panel by doing so.
6. Reach up under the door panel and unplug the electrical wiring harness for the window switch and door lock switch.
7. Hold both sides of the door, pulling it far enough away from the door itself that the plastic ribbed fittings do not catch on their mounting holes. Wiggle the door panel upward slowly to release the door panel from the window track.
8. Pull the sound proofing pad off the inside of the door, being careful not to tear it. Underneath, you will find access holes that will allow you to remove damaged parts of the door.
9. Remove the side-view mirror by locating the bolts exposed in a series of three holes at the front corner of the door. Remove the wiring harness from the large hole in the middle of these three holes. Remove the bolts with the socket wrench.
10. Remove the window regulator motor by reattaching the switch on the door panel to its wiring harness. Close the window. This will give you complete access to the Audi's internal door components. Unbolt the motor from the window track and pull it straight out of the door. On some models, this will cause the window to lower, so hold the window when you're pulling the motor out. When it is out of the door, disconnect the wiring harness from the motor.
11. Remove the door handle by reaching up inside the door and disconnecting the steel connecting rods from the door handle. Next, use the socket wrench through the two access holes on the inside of the door to remove the door handle mounting bolts.
12. Remove the entire front door by opening the door all the way. The two hinges for the door have a C-clip holding the hinge pins in place. Disconnect the wiring harness from the nearby wiring connector, remove the C-clips, then use a hammer to gently pop the hinge pins upward out of the hinge. Have an assistant hold the door as you remove the pins to avoid damage to the front fender or the door itself.
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How to Replace an Audi S4 Slave Cylinder


Replacing the Slave Cylinder
1. Jack the S4 and place it on jack stands.
2. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line using an 8-mm wrench.
3. Remove the two bolts holding the slave cylinder onto the transmission with a ratchet.
4. Place the new slave cylinder onto the transmission, and tighten the bolts with a ratchet.
5. Connect the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder with a wrench.
6. Top off the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid.
7. Bleed the clutch hydraulic line (air was introduced into the system when you replaced the slave cylinder).
Bleeding the Clutch
8. Attach a clear rubber tube to the clutch slave cylinder bleeder.
9. Push down on the clutch pedal and, while pushing down, count, "1, 2, 3." On 3 say, "holding." This will inform your helper when the clutch pedal is fully depressed.
10. Instruct the helper to use an 8-mm wrench to open the slave cylinder bleeder when the clutch pedal is being depressed. The helper will open the bleeder at count 1 and close shortly after the clutch pedal is fully depressed.
11. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until the assistant doesn't see any bubbles of air going through the clear rubber hose. At that point you should feel the clutch pedal to be a little harder to press down than before.
12. Lower the S4 to the ground and test the clutch system for proper operation. If the clutch remains "mushy" or "soft," repeat the process until all the air has exited the system.
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How to Buy a Warranty From Mercedes


1. Go to a Mercedes Benz dealership. A Mercedes Benz dealer is authorized to sell warranty coverage on behalf of the manufacturer. To find a Mercedes auto dealership in your area, you can use a website like Edmunds. A link is in the Resources section. Type in your ZIP code and state for a listing of Mercedes dealers in your area.
2. View the types of warranty programs available through Mercedes Benz. The basic warranty will cover most systems, except wear and tear items, like air filters, brake pads, wiper blades and oil filters. The drive-train warranty will protect your car once the basic warranty expires. This covers moving systems in the car, like the engine, transmission, drive shaft and axles. The rust warranty will protect you in the case of corrosion damage.
3. Select the number of years you want coverage. Both the basic, rust and drive-train warranties start at four years for new vehicles. You can extend the warranties for an additional fee.
4. Look at the mileage covered under the warranties. Most of the coverage will expire once you reach 50,000 miles.
5. Receive a quote on the warranty. If you decide to buy the warranty coverage, it will be added to your car loan and your monthly payments will increase. The Mercedes dealer will provide you with the paperwork to sign as well as a copy of your warranty. If roadside assistance is included in the coverage, you will be given a hot line to call in case of a breakdown.
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How to Replace Audi A8 Brake Pads


1. Park the Audi A8, leaving room sufficient for working on both sides of the vehicle. The transmission should be in 'Park' with the parking brake engaged. Place tire blocks behind the rear tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling backward.
2. Remove the lug nuts on the Audi with a tire iron.
3. Lift the A8 with a jack placed under the frame of the vehicle, not the fender. Once the Audi is lifted so that the tires are at least 2 inches clear of the road surface, place jack stands under the frame. Lower the A8 onto the jack stands, leaving the tires at least 1 inch clear of the road.
4. Remove the wheels by pulling them free from the lug nut bolts.
5. Remove the brake calipers. The calipers house the brake pads and fit around the Audi vented disc rotors. Remove the two caliper bolts at the top and bottom inside (closest to the frame of the vehicle) with a 13 mm socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper away from the rotor.
6. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. The pads are connected via metal clips that you can slide by hand from the calipers. In the event that the brakes are rusted, use a flat screwdriver to pry the metal clips from the caliper before sliding.
7. Open the caliper piston. The piston is a ring that protrudes from the inner wall of the caliper. To receive the new brake pad (which will be thicker because of an unworn pad surface) the piston must be reset to its fully open position. Squeeze the piston open using vise-grip pliers.
8. Install the new brake pads. Slide the pads' metal clips around the caliper. The pads will end up facing each other when properly installed, with the curved edges mirroring the curvature of the caliper.
9. Replace the caliper around the rotor. Replace the caliper bolts, using the 13 mm socket and ratchet.
10. Replace the Audi wheels onto the lug nut bolts. Lift the vehicle to remove the jack stands, then lower the Audi to the ground. Finish tightening the lug nuts when the tires are on the ground with the full weight of the vehicle assisting.
11. Apply the brake three times to reset the caliper piston resting position.
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How to Reset the Service Indicator on a BMW E87


1. Insert your key into your vehicle's ignition and rotate the key to the 'ON' position.
2. Locate button 'A' on the left side of the dashboard. Press and hold button 'A' for 10 seconds for the service item menu to appear on your display screen. Release when the first service item appears.
3. Tap button 'A' to scroll through the service indicator messages on your display screen. When you have found the service item you wish to reset, press and hold the 'B' button located in the middle of your dashboard until the 'Reset' message appears.
4. Release the 'B' button on your dashboard and hold the 'B' button down again for three seconds. Turn your ignition key to the 'Off' position to finish the process.
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